Friday, June 24, 2005

for Karen:

Green methods would be any method that uses the chair continuously. The chair is in the workroom ( or the sewing machine is in the home ). Cutting and sewing are done alternately. Uses chair to pin into, and real fabric spread over entire chair, face out. Sewing is done both from the face ( RS ) and from the back ( WS ).

Results of Green: Absolutely fitting, develops visually, no guessing required. Perfect for portable sewing machine use, least bulk in seams of any method here. Not at all abstract, easy to visualize for beginers.

Yellow is any method which, as above, real fabric is spread and pinned onto entire chair usually RS face out, BUT NOW: fitted entirely before any sewing is done . All fitting is done in one session, then all sewing is done later, sewn all on the WS ( more bulky ). Yellow may also be interpretted as WS out, and / or pinning in a pre sewn welt cord. Chair not needed in workroom. Only a little abstract guessing required. A must for one arm furniture, or any furniture that is manufactured as assymetrical.

That makes for four possible combinations to choose one for yourself from yellow: WS out with cord, WS out without cord while fitting. RS out with cord, RS out without cord while fitting. All may end up being sewn with cord inserted, the distinction is whether or not cord is pinned in while cutting.

Results of Yellow: They all feel very different, requiring different skills and giving different results. Each has it's own advantages and drawbacks. All are the same in that the entire chair is used to spread out real fabric, and fitting done before sewing begun. All sewing done later, off site, sewn from the back only. If cord pinned in and WS out, the sewing is easier to delegate than with Green. Very good fit, though slower to pin fit than Orange.

Orange: uses ONLY half the chair, real fabric, pinning all done, only then sewing begun, pinned ALWAYS without cording. Pinned with double layers, WS out usually, though RS out is done as well. Can be done double~double for two chairs at once. This is for on site use, chair not needed in workroom. Double checking fit with additional trip not done, as this is chosen for symetry rather than absolute fit. Sewing delegated after fitting, only to a highly skilled seamstress. More difficult to sew than Yellow or Green. More abstract.

Results of Orange: Very fast for cutter.

Red method again uses the only half the chair, real fabric, face in (WS) or out (RS), but in a SINGLE layer on the arm, double or single on the middle body areas, pin fitted completely then sewn at later time. Some cutting done on site, some cutting done in the workroom later. You are duplicating the mirror image missing arm later. Can be accurate enough to not need double checking fit, with judgement and experience. If chair available in workroom, or with second trip, gives good symmetry and perfect it, sacrificing neither. Best sewn by cutter, or permanent ( dedicated ) team. Even more abstract.

Results of Red: terrific for drop matches, chintz, unbalanced plaids, and very worn chairs.

Purple methods use MUSLIN ONLY to pin fit and cut, then uses that muslin as a pattern. Red method used to pin fit. Purple distinguished by using judgement to interpret that muslin, this is the first instance where you manipulate the fitting by deliberately cutting real fabric differently than muslin is cut, once muslin is off the chair. Off site only if you are confident. Good judgement will require practice. This one fitted muslin you have made may be used for many subsequent duplicate chairs. Fitting trip to recheck optional, as duplication is chosen purposely for averaging. Differences are acceptable, as the benefits of averaging is deemed more important than absolute fit. More and more abstract. Dedicated team best if sewing delegated.

Results of Purple: fits many occaisions and unique demands, saves time, trips, yardage. It's cautious, gives due care to expensive goods.

Blue: Covers are cut from information collected by observation, ( using TAPE measure ) . Shapes and sized then DRAFTED onto the real cloth at workroom, squaring and making grain perfect the real cloth while drafting. NO FITTING is done. Allows for manipulating sizes and shapes, allows the person cutting to bend less, and makes a distinctively attractive if slightly less fitting cover. Launders best of all methods when method is done well. Method only usable when chair ( usually sofa ) can in fact be measured, thus limited to squarish furniture. The only method where true grain is purposely chosen over true fit. Highly abstract. Actually very easy to sew once cut well.

Blue as well: using muslin again as in purple, but with few pins, and perhaps template paper and pencil as well. Avoiding using real goods untill pattern is made. Real cloth can be cut in the workroom, without bending. This yields a more approximate fit. The more pins used while fitting muslin, the better the fit. The primary use of this is ESTIMATION or a chance to think about a difficult chair, repeat visit absolutely recommended for double checking fit untill confident. Launderability can also be a goal, and grain true cutting can be a priority. More fitting than if measured only, applicable to all chairs ( sofas ). This information can also be used to employ Green method off site in one repeat trip, taking machine to sew, but overlocking can be done in the workroom prior. Getting now less abstract than measuring. Once cut well, not hard to sew.

Results of Blue: again, for unique demands, for the occasion where other methods won't work as well. Allows for a good plan for a washable cover. You think longer, in more detail, you come to grasp abstract cutting in the process. This can save time once understood.

Brown : combines, at will ( yours ) COMBINATIONS of the prior methods. My own uses measuring to accomplish the square shape information collecting, templates for the small round shapes ( such as panels ) muslin chalked or pinned for the inside body and inside and outside arms, or whatever is the least bending for the chair that presents itself. Can be an off site method, if so, then,requiring judgement and perhaps a trip to double check. Distinguished by an opportunuty to stitch in the ditch using an off site cutting method, if stitching that way is comfortable or necessary. Real fabric may be pinned to face WR or RS out, seams may face you or face inward, and all cord except for skirt line is already applied at pin fitting. Much more fitting than Green or Blue. Requires the skills learned in all other colors. Most easily learned last, though no step is difficult. This is just my own concoction, your choices may differ as needed. I suspect many of you do this now. Less abstract than blues. Sewing best done by cutter, or by dedicated team.

Results of Brown: it can take you more time, but I like to think it would yield good symmetry, good fit ( instead of having only one or the other ) and give you same advantanges of problem solving as Red or Purple. This needs more experimentation.

This group is presented as a circle, with six primary and secondary colors making wedge shapes. Brown belongs in center, circle within a circle, presented as a blending of colors. The color assignment is purposeful, in that one color shoulders skills with the next, making the order of learning natural. Green is absolutely GO, it is a starting point, though not at all unsophisticated, and not be be regarded as done once and no longer useful. Green is continuingly useful in problem solving when other methods offer no answers.

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