Sunday, April 23, 2006

Cutting for later disassembly

I will post a series on this too, just to illustrate the words, which may hit the spot and may not.

The reason you'd want to disassemble a pinning may be simple curiosity ( on what planet ? ) or because you must. I'd guess that sooner or later you'd stumble on a situation where you must.

Duplicating quickly comes to mind, whether for underwear or for mulitple covers out of the decorator fabric.

I haven't really thought about it but for about five minutes, but maybe thinking longer wouldn't change my opionion......I don't know that even I could disassemble a cover that was pinned on the right side of the cloth, with the seam allowances turned inward.

So, that's to narrow down my meaning, you can have that fabric face out or face in, but the pins must face you. It doesn't matter if it's whole and single layer or half and double, as long as the pins and raw edges face you.

Obviously, the seam allowance must be even, must be enough, and ideally is cut smoothy, not with whiskers or craters. Sure, there will be pivot cuts made deeply, a given. To make smooth seams easy I use long skinny sharp pins except on curves where short pins are a must.

If you cut choppy or too small seam allwaonces, this is misinformation when you take pins out. Big seam allowances allow for big, multiple, and distinctive notches. I'd be lost without them. They should be infrequent and special as well, too many distort meaning.

Most importantly, I know where my seams usually go, and the unique shaping I give to tucks. That's four things, straight, smooth and even seams, big enough for notches, seam locations that are consistent each time so you know, and the shapings of tucks. That goes a long way to not getting lost when experimenting with taking out pins.


Shirley Hendry Walsh said...

thought of several more things, habits I have that I didn't realize added to the simplicity. I avoid complex intersections. This would fill a book with every example, but just know that where three things come togther you have the Bermuda thingy. Even if it means a pinch of excess that does not get removed, I aim seam openings so that they do not come together at intersections.It's the lesser of evils. And of course pattern matching from the center out, mid point on the furniture, as well as forgining, and not arguing with, the pin fitting where the pattern has missed matching.

Dede in Mass said...

Thanks, Shirley - this is actually very helpful. I cut my welt so that the lip portion is exactly the seam allowance, and trim accordingly. Making a SA bigger than 1/2" would throw me completely off.

Does anyone know if Jeanelle serges? I ordered her soon-to-be-released video ("Reverse Pinning"); it will be interesting to see if she does, and how (serge after stitching vs. serge as part of the process).

Shirley Hendry Walsh said...

it is my understanding that Janelle has you serge after sewing each seam, with cord. I read your above answer, and I see you are maybe including cording in pin fitting ? I should have said, you can only duplicate when none of this has been sewn, and it would be wasted energy to pin the cord in if you have intended to unpin. Am I missing anything here ? I know that unpinning is as unsettling as getting rocketed into space, but once your out there you can go anywhere. Until you take pins out your are tethered to a really limited place.

Dede in Mass said...

I unpin double-on-half, match reference marks, etc. I'm actually okay with it, but I wouldn't say I look forward to it (especially when pins fall out and I have to really study the loose pieces). Moving on to serging... hmm... "feeling untethered" is a good description.

Along these lines, do you normally open tucks and serge OR pin the tucks as they will be stitched and serge over the folds?

I'm really curious about Jeanelle's method, so I ordered the video - haven't received it yet, so can't yet comment on the method.

Shirley Hendry Walsh said...

I usually close tucks, unless there's an obstacle or unless they are going to be washed as separate. I am not sure I grasp the ? ? about serging a fold ?

didja getyer plane tickets ?

Dede in Mass said...

Okay... say you pin in a tuck. When you're serging, do you unpin the tuck and lay the fabric flat (then refold the tuck) OR serge with the tuck still folded?

Clear as mud? :)

Dave wants to wait a couple more days to see if prices drop. Clearly he's living in a dream world, and I shall inform him of this. Then, I shall make haste and hie me to my Discover Card.

Shirley Hendry Walsh said...

yes, I have one of those too...

I still don't get the part about the fold, though if you mean the tuck on the kokky series, that fold gets pulled out as soon as more fitting is done. It's now ( in it's almost done state ) a funnel neck opening, it isn't a fold at all, and it's got a facing, as it serves as an opening that gets stress. Posting more soon on that kooky project series.