Shirley thanks for sharing the double on half method....
You are so awesome. We are getting close to Baltimore and will be contacting everyone who will be coming.... STill need lots of help.
always
K
Saturday, February 28, 2004
Hey all....
I have been on the road teaching and sewing slipcovers.
Went to Jackson Mississippi where I did some awesome silk covers for 6 dinning room chairs. Hope to get them up on the picture trail soon.
Then onto Laurel B&B where I did a workshop.
Onto Arizona to work in SewWhat's workroom and today we are doing another workshop.
Wish you all were here to share your info....
I have been on the road teaching and sewing slipcovers.
Went to Jackson Mississippi where I did some awesome silk covers for 6 dinning room chairs. Hope to get them up on the picture trail soon.
Then onto Laurel B&B where I did a workshop.
Onto Arizona to work in SewWhat's workroom and today we are doing another workshop.
Wish you all were here to share your info....
Thursday, February 26, 2004
y'all can go look at todays answer to the double on half post if you choose, I won't stuff up the board here.
The demo's will be done by everyone coming, different people, different methods. Again, I am talking about Baltimore. April 15 to 18, the Window Fashions show. We are the only slipcovering probably being done, but if you do windows or would like to, this is the largest show of it's kind. I think the classes are over priced, that's just me. Even if you only had a day to do it, you'll miss a good opportunity if you don't come.
The demo's will be done by everyone coming, different people, different methods. Again, I am talking about Baltimore. April 15 to 18, the Window Fashions show. We are the only slipcovering probably being done, but if you do windows or would like to, this is the largest show of it's kind. I think the classes are over priced, that's just me. Even if you only had a day to do it, you'll miss a good opportunity if you don't come.
Wednesday, February 25, 2004
Posted originally on CHFI Slipcover Forum (http://forums.chfindustry.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=24984) by Shirley Hendry Walsh on 2/25/2004:
method : double on half
I did promise a while back to do this, and then waited to see if I could get it into Sew What. I didn't get a response, so I will do it here :
I'll do double on half first though it's # 3 down on the methods list.
Double on half. Done in the home, or shop if you choose. Using the real goods, folded on the center point of ( symetrical ) furniture on the center portions, doubled WS out, RS facing, on the arms.
Let me say that in different words. You take the chair ( sofa ) measure the inside back top and place a pin at the half way point, same on deck, outside back bottom. You are placing a pin where you have measured to find half the chair. The pin marks this place and doesn't get removed untill you are done.
Your block cuts are made the same size you would make them for any slipcover technique, generous. I do the outside back first. I fold goods ( vertically, in half ) to WS out, place the fold on the halfway point, and anchor into chair, with long pins, into the four corners. My pins are inserted back an inch or more from my proposed seam line. My anchor pins stay put while ( and when ) I close seams.
I then position all my block cuts ( double layer )every where on my chair ( on the half I chose to use of course ), WS out double thickness, RS facing smooth and having respected grain and pattern on the side I can't see. I anchor with reasonable tension, though tension ( pulling ) is done on closing seams, not at time of anchoring per se.
This is not a " how to " . This is a contrast. This assumes you would know how to decide where your seams would go, how much over the block cut should be to work with safely, and where you'd center or "picture frame" your print.
After anchoring every pair of cuts securely and having placed those long fat anchor pins out of the line of " traffic " ( where my line of closing pins need go ), and making certain I have a range of choices for seam placement given my block cuts overlap generously , I dig in and see what I can close up. Where appropriate, all block cuts which tuck are arranged so that I can see tuck is provided for : either thay are tucked in, or they are peaked out where I can see they are tucks and not excess.
Closing is the whole game. You must have already made sufficiently large block cuts to give you choices. If one looks short, replace it now. You are brushing cloth into place, it's a gentle process. You sweep one piece into the piece it joins to with tension, but without strain. Closing pins are distributed not in baby step fashion ( say, not here, then at two inches away, then two inches away in a straight line ) but in a " hop skip and jump "" style. You need not work on the outside back untill it's finshed and having closed no seams on other parts of the chair. It's faster to throw in the closing pins you can decide on quickly, and leave areas you are uncertain about to last. You may trim seams as you pin some areas closed in order to see what you are doing in tight areas. Darts folds and unexpected seams used to remove excess are discovered and closed while closing seams.
Pivot cuts : these take courage. In crotch areas, or where turns are made with a block cut, to make it conform to a curve or change direction with it, you often must clip deeply. You must in order to continue closing seams, and when you get there, you will know. Hop skip and jump untill this is a last task, then you will see your choices more clearly. Once you hope skip and jump enough the seams will in fact be closed with pins every two inches apart or closer if defining a curve, or supporting heavy cloth.
To summarize what has not been a full description by any means, just the " lay of the land " and to contrast to what you may now do : all parts of the chair are cut at this fitting, save boxings, skirts, cord. NO cord is pinned in, you may not pin cord in using double on half. There's no sewing done prior to this app't, and many slipcover cutters will not even have the benefit of having seen the furniture or fabric choices prior to walking in the door. You are not there to invent a new process, you are there to execute a proven process, there's no creating or perhaps even much thinking involved. With enough cloth you can embellish after you get back to the shop. You have not cut into the bolt prior to arrival. You will cut off the block cuts without the benefit of a table or yardstick. You pull it off the bolt which lays on the floor, hold a length up to the spot you need a block cut, glance at the pattern, makes sure you have enough block cut to manipulate the pattern into the spot you'd like it to be. Clip the selvage at that size you want.
Hold the cloth end, bolt on floor. Flip the cloth over onto itself at the clip in the selvage, line the cloth up selvage to selvage ( fold will be you cut ) and slip your very shrp scissors into the fold and slit it. It will be straight. You pull the cloth as much as you slide the scissors. This has been done with success a million times, use your foot to help you ( right handed , then right foot ). Try this at home, it's easier than it sounds.
Once it's all trimmed in the home, you fold the pin fitting up and wrap it in the remainder of the cloth and bring it back to shop. You have also : traced cushions, noted boxing height, skirt height intended has been marked on the fitting, and hey, write the phone number on the deck too, may as well.
This is the one and only visit, the one and only fitting, the next trip back it's installed finished. With practice, a chair wil take total 30 to 60 minutes. The average cutter will have as many as six addresses to hit in a day, though hopefully the seven or so pieces they can do are at fewer addresses ( multiple job ). The average cutter will not explain this to a seamstress, it will be understood well enough in this form those people will not need to speak. Exhausted yet ?
Obviously, for those of you who have considered and then tried pre measuring, have had an app't prior to see the job, and can take the cushions with you, you can see how to break this into smaller bites. Just know there are men out there doing this everyday, and that it can be done in a haste, with proven process, and have all the fit that you may struggle longer and more haphazzardly at achieving. You can imagine, these people can employ and delgate to others: they price to receive volume, the volume supports the process. You must keep a seamstress busy to keep a seamstress you have trained to do this, this seamtress training took me two years. Cutters volunteer to do this for the minimum price so the flow of work is uninterupted, so they can keep the employees busy so they don't go out and do it independently.
A rat race ? Yes, but it is THE rat race. It is how most slipcovers make their way into the hands of the people who buy them. You need not change a thing just because you know. You should at minimum be aware. And, if you are good at telling yourself the work they do cannot possibly be good, you need to know it is good work, the results are very acceptable. Creative ? No. Turned around fast ? Maybe not. Competitive ? If they do it in your city, yep. It is how slipcovering is made into big business.
method : double on half
I did promise a while back to do this, and then waited to see if I could get it into Sew What. I didn't get a response, so I will do it here :
I'll do double on half first though it's # 3 down on the methods list.
Double on half. Done in the home, or shop if you choose. Using the real goods, folded on the center point of ( symetrical ) furniture on the center portions, doubled WS out, RS facing, on the arms.
Let me say that in different words. You take the chair ( sofa ) measure the inside back top and place a pin at the half way point, same on deck, outside back bottom. You are placing a pin where you have measured to find half the chair. The pin marks this place and doesn't get removed untill you are done.
Your block cuts are made the same size you would make them for any slipcover technique, generous. I do the outside back first. I fold goods ( vertically, in half ) to WS out, place the fold on the halfway point, and anchor into chair, with long pins, into the four corners. My pins are inserted back an inch or more from my proposed seam line. My anchor pins stay put while ( and when ) I close seams.
I then position all my block cuts ( double layer )every where on my chair ( on the half I chose to use of course ), WS out double thickness, RS facing smooth and having respected grain and pattern on the side I can't see. I anchor with reasonable tension, though tension ( pulling ) is done on closing seams, not at time of anchoring per se.
This is not a " how to " . This is a contrast. This assumes you would know how to decide where your seams would go, how much over the block cut should be to work with safely, and where you'd center or "picture frame" your print.
After anchoring every pair of cuts securely and having placed those long fat anchor pins out of the line of " traffic " ( where my line of closing pins need go ), and making certain I have a range of choices for seam placement given my block cuts overlap generously , I dig in and see what I can close up. Where appropriate, all block cuts which tuck are arranged so that I can see tuck is provided for : either thay are tucked in, or they are peaked out where I can see they are tucks and not excess.
Closing is the whole game. You must have already made sufficiently large block cuts to give you choices. If one looks short, replace it now. You are brushing cloth into place, it's a gentle process. You sweep one piece into the piece it joins to with tension, but without strain. Closing pins are distributed not in baby step fashion ( say, not here, then at two inches away, then two inches away in a straight line ) but in a " hop skip and jump "" style. You need not work on the outside back untill it's finshed and having closed no seams on other parts of the chair. It's faster to throw in the closing pins you can decide on quickly, and leave areas you are uncertain about to last. You may trim seams as you pin some areas closed in order to see what you are doing in tight areas. Darts folds and unexpected seams used to remove excess are discovered and closed while closing seams.
Pivot cuts : these take courage. In crotch areas, or where turns are made with a block cut, to make it conform to a curve or change direction with it, you often must clip deeply. You must in order to continue closing seams, and when you get there, you will know. Hop skip and jump untill this is a last task, then you will see your choices more clearly. Once you hope skip and jump enough the seams will in fact be closed with pins every two inches apart or closer if defining a curve, or supporting heavy cloth.
To summarize what has not been a full description by any means, just the " lay of the land " and to contrast to what you may now do : all parts of the chair are cut at this fitting, save boxings, skirts, cord. NO cord is pinned in, you may not pin cord in using double on half. There's no sewing done prior to this app't, and many slipcover cutters will not even have the benefit of having seen the furniture or fabric choices prior to walking in the door. You are not there to invent a new process, you are there to execute a proven process, there's no creating or perhaps even much thinking involved. With enough cloth you can embellish after you get back to the shop. You have not cut into the bolt prior to arrival. You will cut off the block cuts without the benefit of a table or yardstick. You pull it off the bolt which lays on the floor, hold a length up to the spot you need a block cut, glance at the pattern, makes sure you have enough block cut to manipulate the pattern into the spot you'd like it to be. Clip the selvage at that size you want.
Hold the cloth end, bolt on floor. Flip the cloth over onto itself at the clip in the selvage, line the cloth up selvage to selvage ( fold will be you cut ) and slip your very shrp scissors into the fold and slit it. It will be straight. You pull the cloth as much as you slide the scissors. This has been done with success a million times, use your foot to help you ( right handed , then right foot ). Try this at home, it's easier than it sounds.
Once it's all trimmed in the home, you fold the pin fitting up and wrap it in the remainder of the cloth and bring it back to shop. You have also : traced cushions, noted boxing height, skirt height intended has been marked on the fitting, and hey, write the phone number on the deck too, may as well.
This is the one and only visit, the one and only fitting, the next trip back it's installed finished. With practice, a chair wil take total 30 to 60 minutes. The average cutter will have as many as six addresses to hit in a day, though hopefully the seven or so pieces they can do are at fewer addresses ( multiple job ). The average cutter will not explain this to a seamstress, it will be understood well enough in this form those people will not need to speak. Exhausted yet ?
Obviously, for those of you who have considered and then tried pre measuring, have had an app't prior to see the job, and can take the cushions with you, you can see how to break this into smaller bites. Just know there are men out there doing this everyday, and that it can be done in a haste, with proven process, and have all the fit that you may struggle longer and more haphazzardly at achieving. You can imagine, these people can employ and delgate to others: they price to receive volume, the volume supports the process. You must keep a seamstress busy to keep a seamstress you have trained to do this, this seamtress training took me two years. Cutters volunteer to do this for the minimum price so the flow of work is uninterupted, so they can keep the employees busy so they don't go out and do it independently.
A rat race ? Yes, but it is THE rat race. It is how most slipcovers make their way into the hands of the people who buy them. You need not change a thing just because you know. You should at minimum be aware. And, if you are good at telling yourself the work they do cannot possibly be good, you need to know it is good work, the results are very acceptable. Creative ? No. Turned around fast ? Maybe not. Competitive ? If they do it in your city, yep. It is how slipcovering is made into big business.
Monday, February 23, 2004
Saturday, February 21, 2004
I am making cushions for wood frame furniture.
The fabric is a red/cream pin stripe (1/8" wide stripes) with embroidered polka dots, about 1/4" diameter and 1 1/2" apart.
For the most part the polka dots are embroidered squarely.
When I fold the fabric to cut my bias strips, the dot shifts on and off the center of the strip. The dot will not be down the center of the strip. May be near center every 7-10 inches, inconsistent.
If I follow the polka dot down the center of my strip, the angle is only about 30 degrees.
This is complicated by the fact that I will be using 1/2" cording. So the center of the cord will be very visible.
Which way would you cut your strips to cover this 1/2" cord.
True bias or following dots.
I am inclined to follow the dots. But I know the cord is going to give me trouble, even on the true bias. I'm thinking that the 30 degree angle will give me more trouble.
What do you think?
Christine
__________________
Christine Denise
I say stick with the true bias. I've done scads of similar things, using all kinds of stripes and plaids. I've found its better to stay with any directional strip cut on the true bias. Much better and consistent look.
1/2" cord? Ugh...
__________________
Kim Fisher
Cottage Coverings
Slipcover Fabrication & Design
Forest Grove, Oregon
&
Nike Sampletown Tech
Beaverton, Oregon
i have ran into problems like this before, my choice would be to follow the dots it's a much cleaner look. try one cushion and see if the chord looks good.if it twists too much then you might want to use a coordinating fabric. other options are to make the chording flat (eliminating the chord) or avoiding it completly and cut the top of cushion and front boxing in one piece.
Upholsters do not use bias when making cushion covers. In fact some isew in the welt cord in the boxing strip band, or in the top and bottom pieces of the cushion.
Sometimes I have had to use straight of grain strips for my welt cord, simply because it would looke better.
The advantage of using bias strips is the give around the corners. Just know that sewing on the straight of the grain does not give you that easy and you will have to have make more clips while sewing into the corners.
One more thing you do not have to have it on the true bias. The fabric will give even if it is not. So do what works fastest, and looks good.
It is the visual effect from a distance that counts.
Let us know what you ended up doing.
K
__________________
Karen with ww.slipcoveramerica.com
The fabric is a red/cream pin stripe (1/8" wide stripes) with embroidered polka dots, about 1/4" diameter and 1 1/2" apart.
For the most part the polka dots are embroidered squarely.
When I fold the fabric to cut my bias strips, the dot shifts on and off the center of the strip. The dot will not be down the center of the strip. May be near center every 7-10 inches, inconsistent.
If I follow the polka dot down the center of my strip, the angle is only about 30 degrees.
This is complicated by the fact that I will be using 1/2" cording. So the center of the cord will be very visible.
Which way would you cut your strips to cover this 1/2" cord.
True bias or following dots.
I am inclined to follow the dots. But I know the cord is going to give me trouble, even on the true bias. I'm thinking that the 30 degree angle will give me more trouble.
What do you think?
Christine
__________________
Christine Denise
I say stick with the true bias. I've done scads of similar things, using all kinds of stripes and plaids. I've found its better to stay with any directional strip cut on the true bias. Much better and consistent look.
1/2" cord? Ugh...
__________________
Kim Fisher
Cottage Coverings
Slipcover Fabrication & Design
Forest Grove, Oregon
&
Nike Sampletown Tech
Beaverton, Oregon
i have ran into problems like this before, my choice would be to follow the dots it's a much cleaner look. try one cushion and see if the chord looks good.if it twists too much then you might want to use a coordinating fabric. other options are to make the chording flat (eliminating the chord) or avoiding it completly and cut the top of cushion and front boxing in one piece.
Upholsters do not use bias when making cushion covers. In fact some isew in the welt cord in the boxing strip band, or in the top and bottom pieces of the cushion.
Sometimes I have had to use straight of grain strips for my welt cord, simply because it would looke better.
The advantage of using bias strips is the give around the corners. Just know that sewing on the straight of the grain does not give you that easy and you will have to have make more clips while sewing into the corners.
One more thing you do not have to have it on the true bias. The fabric will give even if it is not. So do what works fastest, and looks good.
It is the visual effect from a distance that counts.
Let us know what you ended up doing.
K
__________________
Karen with ww.slipcoveramerica.com
Friday, February 20, 2004
I am here with you Shirley, just traveling and can't keep up with everything on the Internet.
always
K
you'd think I'd get tired of talking to myself ! ( you'd think ).
Needing a logo. Needing two logos. Will swap. Elegant and practical.com and professionalslipcovers.com needs distinctive font and shape. Take a stab, get a freebee. What freebee ? Suggest.
Anyone have suggestions of sites to look at which posts " magazine " type articles, anything you like the looks of, anything having navigational whizzees with the pictures provided to make them easier to understand ?
always
K
you'd think I'd get tired of talking to myself ! ( you'd think ).
Needing a logo. Needing two logos. Will swap. Elegant and practical.com and professionalslipcovers.com needs distinctive font and shape. Take a stab, get a freebee. What freebee ? Suggest.
Anyone have suggestions of sites to look at which posts " magazine " type articles, anything you like the looks of, anything having navigational whizzees with the pictures provided to make them easier to understand ?
Wednesday, February 18, 2004
Tuesday, February 17, 2004
I am not sure I am the best one to say this, but the booth in Baltimore is a gift. Karen pays for it with the free seminar, but it is a chance that we are only certain to have one year at a pop. If you wait there may not be another. We hope to continue but it's not up to us, and to purchase the space is prohibitive. You have the chance to show your work in person, & greet designers who walk by. You can send your 8 by 10's and a pile of business cards and we wil pass out for you. There's no limit to the kooky-ness you can conjure up in your work, mine is off in left field all the time. Novice work is fine, any spice you add is fine if your own. The only way to do this wrong is to not participate.
official outline for professionalslipcovers.com available email at your request. I am asking for writing on the subjects outlined. No one is too inexperienced to write this, maybe better if you are. Fresh words, bright and cheery, slanted toward the choice of custom made of course. Email me your email so I can forward. slipcoverlady@juno.com .I may have rough site up this week.
Monday, February 16, 2004
maybe a vendor can do that products report ? tedco@erols.com, ask Joe via Richard.
I got great pictures from Jeannie Hutchens for the process of slipcovering. And Jeannie herself, of course. I can print here ten by eights if anyone sends digital disc, if you want to be shown at the booth in Baltimore April 14th.
For washable fabric samples or samples to be test washed ( or washed stuff that loooked promising but turned out very badly ) mail to me. Email me and get address slipcoverlady@juno.com
Still have beds available ( and transportation ) for Baltimore.
Send pillows or table rounds ( or squares ) and I will set small chairs on tables with it. Send cards whether or not you are coming. Send 8 by tens or discs for me to print up 8 by tens. Designers attend, one from your locality may see your stuff.
I got great pictures from Jeannie Hutchens for the process of slipcovering. And Jeannie herself, of course. I can print here ten by eights if anyone sends digital disc, if you want to be shown at the booth in Baltimore April 14th.
For washable fabric samples or samples to be test washed ( or washed stuff that loooked promising but turned out very badly ) mail to me. Email me and get address slipcoverlady@juno.com
Still have beds available ( and transportation ) for Baltimore.
Send pillows or table rounds ( or squares ) and I will set small chairs on tables with it. Send cards whether or not you are coming. Send 8 by tens or discs for me to print up 8 by tens. Designers attend, one from your locality may see your stuff.
Sunday, February 15, 2004
Dee are you out there?????
Anyone out there. I sure could use some help with the Slipcover Press.
Shirley is already writing the Slipcover Lady column...
Anyone else out there who would be willing to collect information for the vendor spotlight or the professional spotlight?
If you are already doing something for the Network, don't volunteer for another thing....
Thanks
K
Anyone out there. I sure could use some help with the Slipcover Press.
Shirley is already writing the Slipcover Lady column...
Anyone else out there who would be willing to collect information for the vendor spotlight or the professional spotlight?
If you are already doing something for the Network, don't volunteer for another thing....
Thanks
K
Wednesday, February 11, 2004
HI Shirley!
Yes I was prepared with pictures. I sent you exactly what I had sent in for the Calendar Contest. The personal photo IS the hardest to send. Thank you for the compliment on my picture but you better believe I took alot of bad pictures before that one. I never like any pictures of myself. Who does?
Yes I was prepared with pictures. I sent you exactly what I had sent in for the Calendar Contest. The personal photo IS the hardest to send. Thank you for the compliment on my picture but you better believe I took alot of bad pictures before that one. I never like any pictures of myself. Who does?
Tuesday, February 10, 2004
Do you have any before and after photos of your slipcover jobs???
We'd love to include them in the booth in Baltimore.
Show off your work, and let others know what a custom slipcover really looks like.
The photos need to be 8x10 before and after would be great with your biz name, email address, phone number and where you are located....
Show is April 15-17 but I needed them yesterday..............
Let me know if you have something you want to send, and I'll tell you where you should send them.
__________________
We'd love to include them in the booth in Baltimore.
Show off your work, and let others know what a custom slipcover really looks like.
The photos need to be 8x10 before and after would be great with your biz name, email address, phone number and where you are located....
Show is April 15-17 but I needed them yesterday..............
Let me know if you have something you want to send, and I'll tell you where you should send them.
__________________
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