I will try to get the article to you by mar ________? Date ?

Looking for more washable slipcover choices, ones that don't take the effort the CR D. stuff does. I am wore out on that.

I am still solidifying my summit travel plans, I am bringing someone maybe, and I'll have acar too, so I am playing it by ear for a while.

I see Alicia in Vegas the wek of the 22nd. Anything else needed to be worked on ?

Slipcover Press will be put together at the end of March.

So ideas from
Shirley
Jeanne
Dee
Angie

Greatly appreciated. I am also looking for a project some one just completed to be share with our readership.

Vendor to Spotlight... Jeanne what about Evotex?

Shirley... I was wondering what in the world happened to you? Missing in action. I am getting excited about the Summit too. All you need to do is be prepared for your classes, and let me know what classes you would like to sit in on, and when you arrive and where you will be staying and if you want a roommate?

Bringing anyone with you?

So you will be seeing Alicia in Las Vegas?

K with SA

*************************************************************************************finally lifting my head up from machine, after four weeks of holding my breath over flame proof blackout.

240 widths out the door monday, then scramble to get late covers done.

Still finally, getting excited about the summit, making plans.

I see Alicia on the 22 march, anything we need to do to get ready ?

Thanks Angie for the info. Let us know what is going on with this? I sent info to a couple others.....

Also need newspaper info to get things in the newspaper.

always
K with SA




Karen, the deadline for the applications are the 5th of Mar. And I received the package from Wolf today.

Angie

Yes we are the ones who do the education. More people should consider the impact we make on our environment. Also the fabrics we work with should be kind to our health.
These are things to think about.

Jeanne, I loved the feel of the hemp and PET combination fabric. Though it is a little expensive at $24.90 it is a recycled product.

Again those of us who use these fabrics are the ones who need to talk about the impact.

Thanks
Jeanne

Also, along the lines of educating the public--- I have a great comment from a friend regarding my endeavors to promote "Natural Slipcovers". She said even if I don't get a lot of business specifically for slipcovers from earth friendly fabrics I'll be doing my part to educate the "world" (she thinks big) about the importance of considering the environmental impact of your choices. (I like rationalizers!)

Now back to sewing up these sunbrella cushion covers that are giving off brillant blue lint so that I can stuff them into petro-chemical derived polyester and foam.....

Jeannie

Was it March 4th or 15th for the deadline for the Scholarhips to the Slipcover Summit?

I know folks still can get their room discount until March 22nd.

Hello is anyone out there?

K

Dee ... Maybe we need to write HGTV and tell them the truth. Ideas, how can we set this straight?

HGTV Decorating Cents did it AGAIN! (Grrrr...). "$123" for custom slipcovers (chair and matching ottoman) - just appeared out of nowhere (!). Host Joan Steffend's cheery comment to the designer: "Just goes to show you - look for a great shape. If your chair is outdated, just throw a slipcover on it for a brand new look."

Twill or duck (possibly 12 oz.) - not something the average home sewer could "whip up" on a domestic machine. Plus decorative cord.

Yeah... I'm annoyed.

DYI shows I agree do not truely go into the reality of what it is like to sew a slipcover. But do you realize this is our opportunity to educate the general public about slipcovers.

When I teach at the sewing shows around the country folks then realize if they really don't know how to sew trying to tackle sewing their own slipcover is not something they want to do. So that is where we pros come into the picture.

Educating the public is on going.

Karen

if it's any consolation ( and it shouldn't be, your critism is right on the money ( ha ha ).............

no labor is ever mentioned on that show, no labor is mentioned specifically on any of those shows ( not even addresses or states for the locations)

the difficulty is respresented as do it yourself level on other programs, which is even worse than not mentioning price.....

but what they try to do is get a dream under your craw that you just cannot ignore.

If price was stated, some people may dismiss it outright ( if they knew " sewing " costs as much as your accountant charges you, it's professional. ). They would not be our clients anyway.

The nugget of value is exposure, and it sure is skewed to gettin' up hopes it's cheap and simple, eh ?

Pointless vent to follow...

Just finished watching an episode of "Decorating Cents" on HGTV, in which a decorator does her mother's apartment living room ("for under $500").

(Imagine Mrs. Sofa Owner, who is watching this episode and thinking... "Hmm...")

Well, the decorator liked the style of her mom's couch, but not the color. Surprise! A custom slipcover (plus throw pillows) instantly appears in an interesting mix of color and texture (decorator points out the $50/yd fabric used sparingly here, less expensive fabric there, etc.) "for just $299". Yeah, $299. COM fabric only - $299. The fact that there even WAS a labor cost was not even mentioned. And if the decorator bought the fabric wholesale, even MORE unrealistic misinformation, since Mrs. Sofa Owner will be paying retail.

So, Mrs. Sofa Owner sees the episode and starts calling slipcover workrooms on Monday, looking for an "inexpensive way to freshen the look of her sofa." And is floored. "But... it's just a slipcover! It's not supposed to cost that much! "

[/vent]

Debbie Philipps (of Fredericksburg, TX) and her home and workroom - Simple Slips - are the featured cover story of Country Living for March 2005! Check out her work with vintage and linen fabrics - just beautiful!

Note: Debbie's been busy - see also...

http://www.hgtv.com/hgtv/dc_fabrics_slipcovers/article/0,1793,HGTV_3391_1394968,00.html

http://64.233.161.104/search?q=cache:yKdQ0El6vfUJ:magazines.ivillage.com/victoria/print/0,,367606,00.html++%22simple+slips%22+slipcovers&hl=en&ie=UTF-8%20target=nw


(Sorry about the coding, still having trouble - you'll have to cut 'n paste the addresses)

Oh, and I guess Dennis is paying me back for the photo I got of him! (At least the zipper matched my pants!)

Jeannie

I just got the info and fabric samples on the Mitchell Company organic cottons. Their email is fabricsales@organic-cotton.com. The phone number is 800 870 5312. They are only open Tues, Wed., and Thurs. and Mabel is the only person in the office.

She said that no chemicals are used in the processing of the fabric. Some of the samples are jacquard weave and one, a med. large paisley is really incredible--the outlines of the paisleies are raised and woven in tan. These nicer ones are $8.65 for $50 yards but the rest are closer to $5.00 ($1.00 more for cut yardage). Some are definitely too light for slipcovers.

I'll order some samples to test.

New business: Jean Hutchins Chemical Glues and Toxic Fabric Lint Upholstery and Natural Slipcovers, Inc.

Re: http://www.slipcoveramerica.com/summit2005.html (2004 Summit movie clip)

Gee... thanks A LOT! :D "Mr. DeMille, I'm ready for my close up." NOT! :D :D :D

Very nicely done, actually - except for that shot of me struggling on Alicia's machine...

Slipcover Summit Scholarships

Have you been thinking about attending the Slipcover Summit April 21-24 in sunny St. Petersburg FL but don't think you can afford it? Well think again!

As chairperson of the Scholarship committee, I am excited to announce that Slipcover Network will be awarding 4 (yes that's four) $250 scholarships to be applied toward class fees. This is possible due to several generous donors (who wish to remain anonymous (sp).

Details of the application process are currently being worked out and should be available soon. If you are interested and wish more information write Angie at slipitonme@aol.com.

Has anyone read about the Scholarhship to the Slipcover Summit? Several of the instructors have put together an opportunity for scholarhships to the Summit in Flordia.

Wow I know this will really help...

Thanks

Yeah Jeanne...

I am excited to learn more about this cotton, as I too will add it to my list of organic cottons. So let us know when you hear from them

Thanks, Jeannie. Too bad they don't post fabric weights on the site - I guess samples are the way to go, then.

http://www.organic-cotton.com/

This link brings up a page under the name of Earth Stone Fabrics and it says "Mitchell Company's.

I think this is the same as the Mitchell Company here in NC that is supposed to call me back tomorrow.

Jeannie, I found the following information from the Organic Cotton Directory:

"Mitchell Fabrics is a retail and wholesale business that caters to the general public as well as the wholesale market. We provide over 30 different organic fabrics as well as organic throws. We also provide conventional fabrics such as Hoffman, Moda, Waverly and Wellington Sears to a growing worldwide market."

Unfortunately, the link provided doesn't work. Did you find one that does?

Dede

I found a site that linked to the Mitchell Fabrics organics. Finally! Good prices $5.00-$7.00 yard range for 50 yds ($1.00 more for cut). This looks like the source for some of the nearseanaturals.com and moonbath.com's fabrics. When they call me back I'll see what I can find out. 1. Definition of organic, 2. How chemical free, 3. Presence of sizing or finishing, 4. Source of fabric, 5. Dying 6.Anything else?

Jeanne...

Many folks will not have time to check out the same resources. I have to tell you I have found many, many organic cotton sites. All have different pricing. I am still looking for a better rate, writing for samples, and then after I get samples I ask if they will sell to me at wholesale. Many are willing to.

www.hempertrader.com is willing to, so that means I can still have afforadable pricing for a great fabric.

Yes, you can offer washable service, that is important. Some charge anywhere from $5 to $10 a yard to wash. Do keep that in mind.

always
K

So now I'm hooked on checking 2 forums....
Tell me this: what good does it do me to find sources of (organic or ?) fabric on the web, if a customer can do just as well? I suppose I could offer a washing service using my organic (hopefully not too organic), non-chlorinated well water.

I have a call in to Mitchell Fabrics here in NC re their organic line. (Their web site doesn't function) Maybe it's gone overseas...

Hi Shirley--what I did is highlight what I wanted to copy in the blog and then pasted it in a new word document in the "correct " order. (is that what you were asking me?)

must be hard to sell fabric where all those outlets are.................. Jeaniie, Word Documents ? You can get this over there ?

you'll find " greenies" in numbers at the alergy doctor's.

All this talk about organic, "green" fabrics got me thinking. Maybe this is the kind of fabric niche I can use to compete with the $7/yard store (with GREAT fabric) just down the road. I've cut and pasted the posts with the links to environmently friendly fabrics so I can read them logically and I'll try to do some more research for everyone in the next week or 2 .


(Every time I check out this blog while it is on the forum site I get overwhelmed by trying to follow things backwards. Now I just stick them in a word document if its something I want to follow.)

Jeannie

Not to devolve into politics, but I think liberal views are being questioned this year. There's enough work for anyone who believes this to be true. Enough friendship to be had for anyone who looks, believing there's plenty to find. The pie grows, it doesn't get cut into smaller and smaller slices. You learn more teaching than you do sittin' home alone.


We all have plenty. Share it, and we'll see where we all go from here.

Re: http://forums.chfindustry.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=31153

I am so, so proud of everyone who participated in this thread. It could have easily devolved into a nasty train wreck; instead, it became a powerful and uplifting affirmation of our finest qualities.

We rock.

Dede

recommendations for jobbers books ? Anyone having good luck with a line or two ? Not bolt goods, piece goods, looking to expand line..............

you have to log out in order to get back on ( previously discussed problem ). You can do so from another computer or from another persons "desktop" on your own computer . Someone suggested clearing caches, I did do that, it didn't do it for me. I did however succeed, once, on a new computer, just to have the same problem again, by not signing out. The log out is hard to find, clear your cookies and that should do it.

don't panic yet. Took me minutes to get on blogger too. Snow day.......

Quick Poll...

How many people here, right now [Wednesday, January 19, 4:40pm EST], can NOT log onto the CHFI Forum?

Message: "The server is too busy at the moment. Please try again later."

Dede

new rewritten color coded methods summary, available this week. Use this address only to ask for copy: slipcoverslady@yahoo.com anyone who wants an email attached summary may ask for one.

the details don't matter much, the lesson will.

I hope to be able to challenge people to look beyond the method they are already comfortable with to imagine how they can make their lives easier without making them feel bad they don't already know it.

I push the list to suggest this, and some are not open to the way it's said ( by me apparently ) .

I hope the good part ( what's available to learn ) can be the message remembered and not the imperfect means by which the news is spread around.

I read maybe too much into complaints ( elsewhere ) that appear to say " say nothing more ". I'll ignore the possible pissy interpretations of that and just say, this is too important to chance appearing to be biased or personality driven. The information is worth more than my ego, throw eggs, heck, just read the information.

Hopefully, the colors will remove some objections. The message is that we offer to tell you what makes slipcovers a great career and one that you won't regret investing time and energy in learning. Available slipcover learning experiences are not all that common, so I won't hesitate to say again, it's right here.

Shirley....

I am not sure that I understand what you are writing about.

I love the idea of color for the methods. Newbies don't understand that there are different methods until they have been around awhile, and then can see the reason for different methods.

That is why the Summit is such a great place to learn. Things are learned in Progression, one step at a time. One method, leads into another method.....

You are such an inspiration.

the list is my child, I am going to nuture it, and no one is going to tell it to go away ( no one here did that ).

I dressed my child in a circle costume. I tolerate conflict pretty well, but people don't get off without a scolding. Again, not here. It was just nonsense.

I did however realize that the world we negotiate in ( the websites we frequent ) have quirks. There were valid points made as well. I won't be doing this : any more . I will mention CHF products I use everyday. I actually buy them.


I wish Angie ( ANGIE ! ) would mention Stephen Covey, we both agree stongly with the principles.

Strong, principled women make slipcovers. Smart women. Compassionate women.


My skeleton crew cut, joined and put the bucram ( nearly all ) on 140 widths of drapes in three days. They push me out of the way, now I need a epidural block in my back. I do have free time.

Re: Color System for Slipcover Methods

"What is nice ( I hope ) is now methods can be talked about more freely on various websites, discussing when and where they are taught, even if privately when someone expresses an interest. The colors may help neutralize some hurt feelings." [Shirley, from "another site"]

I'm glad you're doing this, Shirley (in your non-existent free time...). There's obviously a need, but I've given up trying to understand WHY there is a need. I'm dumb as a post, I admit it, and my head hurts trying to make sense of any of this. You're a better woman than I am for even trying.

Dede

Slipcover Press for Winter 2005 is online. Go to www.slipcovernetwork.com then click on the Slipcover Press.

always
K with SA

New site looks good, I like the title.

Color system ( three days old ) was the byproduct of discussing some uncomfortable feelings expressed by persons advocating one system of cutting over another.

I always knew there was a chance people would infer more into a methods list format than was intended, so I made it a circle. No start, no end, no beginners, no advanced.

Instead of a list that I try to describe by naming people, it's a circle with six wedges. Color them so we can talk about them , yellow, orange, red, purple, blue, green.

The colors were assigned as: Karen's green, Pat's, Janelle's and Alicia's yellow, double on half orange, single on half and muslin pinning red, from an old slipcover is purple, and all methods ( measuring and chalking a muslin ) which come from observations not cutting on the piece, they are blue.

This I hope actually leaves room for more to develop, you can say you do Green~blue for instance.

I decided the occaison maybe also called for expressing my own hopes that people share stories, anectotes about their own paths, there's no history in a circle, the wealth and value is in each persons path and story. I hope people tell some. No circle or graph replaces this.

What is nice ( I hope ) is now methods can be talked about more freely on various websites, discussing when and where they are taught, even if privately when someone expresses an interest. The colors may help neutralize some hurt feelings.

Shirley what color system? What is this for?

Fabric? Paint?

I would like to know more.

Methods of Slipcovering?

I have a new beginings of a website www.SlipcoverInternational.com, all about on going course in slipcovering.

Thanks DEE

Congrats on the new site link - looks good!

anyone wanting to be clued in on a color system now being used to talk about various methods, post here.


remember there are videos available to make everyone's life a little more simple, and the purchase is well worth the time and money spent.


Live teachers are available to support you in a new career as well, be certain to ask.

Wow, Karen - impressive research! Just when I think I have it all figured out... :D

Organic fabrics...... are grown here in the USA. These are not treated with chemicals. Wow it is amazing what they use on non-organic cotton. Organic cotton is pesticide free, and no chemicals have been added when weaving the cloth.

Hemp is usually organically grown, but it is not allowed in the USA. I did read the other day something about it being grown in Kentucky however, so I am not sure about that. Most of it does come from other countries. I have been doing more research regarding hemp fabric. But did find www.hemptraders in LA who has it available to us at a good price. Meaning we can make some money if we sell it to consumers for slipcovers. They will give us a great price at 500 yrd pricing, but we don't have to buy 500 yards. You can get samples from them to see what they have. I liked what I saw.

Linen too is woven organic, and there can be a mix just like hemp/linen, or cotton/linen.................

Green is a word that is being used lightly..... Organically green is the real tamale. But it all depends on what someone wants in their home or what we want to work with.

always
K with SA

Read these websites

PBDE more about Flame retardents.

http://www.mindfully.org/Plastic/PBDE-Polybrominated-Diphenyl-Ether.htm

http://www.mindfully.org/Plastic/PBDE-Flame-Concern30jan02.htm

http://chemistry.about.com/cs/medical/a/aa102603a.htm

http://www.watoxics.org/redirect/TFL_PBDES.aspx?fromMenu=0&pos=&name=TFL_PBDES

You will find more links to other sites from these sites.

Let me know what you think
always
K

Hemp fabrics.

I have used the fabric from Dream On Futon, and it washed up well.

Just got new stuff from www.hemptraders.com check them out.

Shirley how long ago did you do this hemp fabric? It would be great for you to wash and discuss at the Summit in your fabric workshop.

New fabric (not Z-Tex)Textile Plus http://textileplus.com/ check it out.....
I have pricing that Jim has quoted me. If you like what you see write me for more information.

always
K with SA

Found two retail sources for (reasonably priced) organic upholstery-weight fabric:

www.moonbathshop.com (see: Organic Fabric)

www.nearseanaturals.com

NOTE: "Green" fabric is not necessarily "organic" - it just means the fabric isn't chemically treated (ex. Homespun is "green" but is not organically grown).

There's more out there - Karen have you found anything yet at the wholesale distributer level? I'm assuming the majority of organic fabrics are imported, hence the need for domestic distributers.

I really need to get a life...

Re: hemp fabric

Has anyone tried the hemp fabric offered by Dream On Futon Co.? They advertise in the Slipcover Press - I haven't ordered anything (yet), but Rachel is a delight.

1-800-404-9501

I found the Green Guide on the web, it only gives one paragragh without subscribing, about PBDE's and breast tissue absorbtion.

Was that the issue, and are there larger blurbs to read ?

oh Karen. Please tell me more about your sources for info about flame retardant. I just brought a commercial job into my house.............240 widths drapery..............all FP. WE got babies here.......

I do know my one experience ( each ) with linen and hemp were a bust. They both washed poorly, different suplliers. The Dharma Trading hemp pilled, ( maybe it was my ammonia method ) and the washed linen ( prewashed ) continued to lose fiber in the wash water, after three washings. It looked fine, but the wash water was always full of fiber, a scary amount.

I stopped then, figuring this is some kind of inherent behavior. Anyone find this not to be true, even if a more costly choice ? I first looked to keep it inexpensive, and stopped there.

re: "denim fabric insulation"

Karen, are you talking about that batting-like insulation material made from denim scraps? I've seen it in magazines, but never in person. Does it have upholstery/slipcover potential?

see: www.bondedlogic.com for more information.

I have been doing much research regarding "user friendly materials" to be used in our businesses for our "customer's interiors".

There has been much written and talked about fire retardants being toxic to our interior environment, plus the dyes that are in our decorator fabrics being safe, plus the foam we are using in our cushions and furniture (these are made from petroleum based product and will one day become very costly)

Is there anyone out there using alternative types of products like organic cotton, wool batting for fillers, new denim fabric insulation for cushions?

Anyone have any good linen or hemp suppliers for fabric?

Thanks
Karen with Slipcover America Inc
www.slipcoveramerica.com

10% off at the Pillow Lady website http://thepillowlady.com

It's a New Year Special. Check it out, you will love her videos.

Karen, no problem submitting an article. I've already done most of the research. I'm assuming you're looking for thread characteristics: construction, fiber, strength, etc. as they apply to slipcover fabrication. Anything else you want to see?

What is the deadline for submission?

Slipcover Summit 2005 is online and ready for registration....

12 workshops will be offered over the 4 day retreat. You can come for 1 day or stay for all 4. It is up to you. Summit is for beginners through experienced slpcover pros. So if you think you are wanting to know more about making slipcovers, or want to learn more tips and tricks, or just stay educated this is the event for you.

This year is in ST Pete's Beach, Florida.

Read all about it at www.slipcoveramerica.com, then click on Summit 2005. Also there is a link right here on this blogger page, that will take you right to the sight.

If you or anyone you know may want a brochure, call and I will be happy to send to them snail mail.

Need to book your hotel no later than Feb 28th to get the summit discount. We are encouraging folks to share rooms to keep the cost down.

Also Southwest is having a deal to St Petersburg, Florida Featured Destination need to book by the 6th of January.

Questions do call me at 800-267-4958

always
Karen with the Slipcover Network
info@slipcovernetwork.com

Hey Alicia (TheZipperLady.com) it is about time your joined us on this blog...
How is CAlifornia? I heard there has been lots of rain there?
More rain than we get in Washington.
It is cold here and they are saying snow?
NO WAY>>>>>>>>

So are you sewing yet?

Hey Dee this is cool about the thread... Would you like to write this info up for the next slipcover press issue to come out in March? There are many out there who may want to get in on this too, that don't get online regularly.

Way to go. You are a pretty savvy business gal

Who knew thread could be sooooo fascinating??!! :D

If you didn't already order thread cards from American & Efird, you can call their industrial division directly: 1-800-438-5868. The colors are GORGEOUS! And the people are very nice and helpful. Right now, as a group we seem to be concentrating on Anefil nylon and poly, and D-Core and PermaCore; for details, go to: http://forums.chfindustry.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=30661&perpage=15&pagenumber=1

I should hear about wholesale pricing in a few days, but if we can't get it, A&E's list prices are still better than any distributer I've seen. I'm also still checking to see to what extent we can mix an order (colors, types, sizes, etc.).

Details to follow...

We were talking about his over there~~~~~~~~~~ but I had mistakenly use tex 24 in heavy canvas washables, only to find out it works fine, wraps quantity on my bobbin for fewer changes, and makes a small puncture to hide well.

Then everyone pointed out my mistake, that tex 24 isn't supposed to hold. Still scratching my head. I've done it for six years and 4000 yards of canvas.

Maybe this is like the problem I had switching finally to mollies from plastic anchors, it worked well enough for 13 years untill I had a huge catastrophy.

hot dang ! I wanna come ! Actually I am pretty broke, bought drapery tabling equipment. You should never have shown me that I had a tacker.

My new years resolutions: begin making more repetitive draperies and limit myself to fun slipcovers. I spoiled my enthusiasm about slipcovers by allowing them to become too repetitive. Somethings must be repetitive to delegate work. My slipcovers are too much like my quilting and knitting, with slipcovers I feel like I sell my children. Draperies are distant relatives' stepchildren to me, who cares ?

Question: having cleaned up my basement and organized my supllies, does anyone out there still use 0/3 or should I donate this huge box to a shelter ? I have metal zips as well that I will never again use.

Newbies, I will ship to you ! Free ! I hate to give them to a shelter where they perhaps cannot use them.

Hi Gang!
I've been lurking around the blog for a while w/o being able to get on. K sent me the link & hopefully I'll be able to get me together. Am somewhat moved to southern Cal. Where did I get all this stuff? Most is for my workroom. Have been thinking about getting a retail space only to keep all the fuz out of the house.

About the thread thing, usually you have to buy SO MUCH & it usually is a minimum of $5000 & boxes of each color. when I get thread from Atlanta Thread, I usually get 4 for serger & 2 for reg machine, usual box is 10 or 12 so we could split the box of each color.

I will go down into the fabric/fashion area in LA & see what i can find there. It might be about the same price as becoming a dealer. I use dual duty poly core with cotton wrap. Does anyone else use that?

Cheers! Happy Solstice & New Year!

You are at the top of the list Dee...

I did a post the other day too, and it came up someplace else.

I guess that is just the way things land in cyberspace sometimes...

always
K

Test - to see WHERE this lands. Last time I posted, it landed several posts down (not on top).

Do we have a Resident Computer Genius?

You can't get anything done with the kids and hubby around? Oh is that so???

I am someone else knows more about maxi lock which is serger thread used for homesewers.... I do use it for my slipcovers and it works well in home machines. When you go to commercial machines, maxi lock will break, so one needs something stronger.

I know Claudia gets serger thread from some place, and Shirley has serger thread. I'm sure you asked them what they use...

As for group rates, get a commitment from others first before you order. Being a dealer would be nice, but not if you have to put a lot of money up front.

Thanks for thezipperlady's website .....

K with SA

As far as zippers.... did you know we have someone who is in that business?

The Zipperlady. You can find her online at www.zipperlady.com

always
K

Hi All...

Best wishes to everyone.

We will start mailing out the issue of the Slipcover Press for Dec/Jan... I guess we could call it our winter edition. Make sure I have you snail mail address, if you have not been getting the Slipcover Press.

Also if you are on any other forums and folks do slipcovers, would you let them know about the Slipcover Press, please...

Wow Dee, you are something else. What do you want to know specifically about a group buy? We have done it before.

I will try to help if I can.

always
K

Karen, Re: group purchases...

So, how is it normally done? My initial guess is: I receive the order, then repackage items and mail USPS (so, purchase cost [+ S&H] + packaging material cost + postage cost = final cost per person].

I will see what's involved in becoming a distributer; otherwise, they might not give us a wholesale price (details were not clear when I last spoke with them). Give me another week to figure this out (because I am accomplishing NOTHING with husband and kids home for winter vacation...).

Happy 2005 to all of us!

I've been researching thread (construction, fiber, size) on the CHFI Slipcover Forum - I'll post everything here as soon as it's finished. Several of us have discussed a direct group purchase from American & Efird (manufacturer of PermaCore, etc.), and I'm trying to negotiate distributer pricing with them. If anyone here has ever worked out a long-distance group purchase before, please post details! We're not sure how to proceed...

I love research; I really miss my research days... *sigh*

Karen and all, best wishes, today and all the coming year.

Yes, Shirley it could have been redirected depending on how they have set their spam mail, or junk mail setting.

I do not send mail from the slipcovernetwork site directly, nor from the slipcoveramerica site.

If someone requested a pricing summary and did not get it all they need to do is send another email and ask for one. We are happy to help out.

So, spread the word. I think we have sent out about 200 of these already to folks all over the country.

always
K with SA

is there any chance people who you sent list by email may have had that email and attachment redirected to their junk box by their isp ?

If this is the case, what do you reccomend ?

The Slipcover Pricelist Summary which covers North America and then broken down by several regions of the USA attained in 2 ways...

1)Email attachements is fast and easy. Can be zipped off as soon as I get business information. Send email to info@slipcovernetwork.com and for our records we need to know the following:

Name of Business
Address of Business (including, city, state and zip code)
Phone number of Business
Website or email address.
How will they use the information..

2)Hard copy costs $5 for processing and mailing. A check or credit card should be send to The Slipcover Network 8118 Skipley Rd Snohomish, Washington 98290.
We do need the same business information for are records as I have stated above.

We are so happy to share this information.
always
Karen with Slipcover Network

several people asked me for the price list lately, Karen, would you give instructions about how to get one ?

Hi All...

Found a great site for Hemp fabrics. Looking into wholesale pricing.

Hope everyone is well.

Thanks! I'll probably go with natural.

I sell more natural color fabrics, than white. However when we are done it looks like white in the room, if there is no other white.

Love that natural look in Hompsun, denim, linen fabrics.

People buy my natural canvas about three times as often as the bleached white.

For those who work a lot with textured, neutral cottons...

Which do customers seem to prefer: white or natural/off-white?

I'm thinking about getting a full bolt of... something... (Hobnail? Something from Z-Tex?), wanted to know if customers tend to lean toward one or the other.

Thanks!

well, just some general guidelines. This is Homespun Fabrics PO box 4315 Thousand Oaks Ca. 91359 Hob Nail patternway color white , and though it took longer than predicted, it's beautiful when done.

It needs to be cut 5% large for me, I am not rewashing for removal of residual shrinkage. Rewashing makes it even more wildly wiggly and stretchy.

I'll take my chances hiding the 5% extra in the dressing of it on the chair. There's no claim of residual shrinkage made, says preshrunk, but leaving %5 extra was acceptable to look at, and safer than assuming.

Crinkle ( crashed ) voile was great for lining the skirts, I cannot believe such an unlikely choice had all the needed properties. It will give if asked, and will sew on then shrivel, good for this Hob Nail.

Sewing it makes it stretch, and the more you add, the more stiff and the longer it gets. You must consciously limit this when adding each new layer. Skirts were the thickest, I used big honking ( thank you Dede ) walking foot, ( only for skirt ) and as I sewed, pushed toward the needle the incoming fabric. I unscrewed the presser foot pressure control untill it was very light pressure.

The leg hole facings are cord casing used as bias double fold tape would be used. I left the seam allowance in there, all of it. I zig zagged slowly as near my nose as I could place the machine. It's stiff, yes, but it turns up like a collar, and it's very near the diameter of the cording on the rest of cover. It's secure, uniform, and hugs the legs.

Shirley Hendry Walsh...........................

Well, because I love what this Hob Nail looks like done, I am going to add it to the list of fabrics discussed at " Washed and Rewashed Fabrics, Tricks and Tips " at this next summit.

For instance, in order to top stitch it with a cord edge finish, I had to ( after experimenting ) apply 12% less cord to the fabric than when it measures flat. Said differently: if I had an edge that needed cord being 19" I'd consciously limit the cord applied to 17" or a bit less.

Hard to control unless you apply empty casing to face, pull it evenly, and then fill it with cord. Comes out perfectly flat with my sewing it, maybe needs adjustrment for machine and operator.

I got roller coasters untill I found the courage to eliminate that much, I didn't get to that point but by steps. A filled casing was hard to control, the empty one went on just as fast.

Again it came out flat and the right size once done, and did not require a walking foot to do this well .

Dede, I got your package. Thanks, I am going to try a couple.

Struggling to finish this Hob Nail job for six french DR chairs. Struggling to regain interest in all the remaining holiday sewing, but this is a pickle of the dill variety.

Sticking to the plan, too far gone to change, and no fresh ideas have occurred to me anyway.

It requires patience, and many many many many notches.

I may break out the Pfaff1222e before the day is done to secure with slow zig zag the facings around leg openings and then just whack off the excess.

The thicknesses are a real issue, and next time I may use voile facings everywhere, maybe complete ones cut bias.

This is luxury work, despite the washable kitchen~y nature, and it needs to be priced as to expect it to take as long as any job needing careful sewing.

It will be a luxury for the end user who decided to place expensive chairs at the breakfast table.

Email me for pricing talk and my decsion about the next time I price it. slipcoverlady@juno.com

Anyone ever done this have suggestions that have not come to me yet ?

10pm Sunday nite here in Arizona. Claudia and I just finished doing a dog show. Wow we talked to a lot of people. Offering pet furniture, critter covers for their furniture, plus photos of their dog on pillows for holiday gifts and other occasions.

Claudia also told folks about here sewing workroom. 250 cards were past out.


Check out SEWWHAT4U.com to see her pet site.

always
K with SA

oh yeah, I didn't rewash it, no. For the reason you said, it's stabilized by this last adding of sizing. Fabric would be even more stretchy without it.

Maybe I should quanitfy the changes, I see it as big, but then I am nervous about my promises. If you weren't looking for the changes, and it happened all at one or over time by EVENLY, then it's not a big deal.

I had the benefit of seeing on of Karen's sample covers that got washed funny, and putting this in context, I am LOOKING for this stuff, it was obvious to me.

When I cut my french chair cover I left hills of excess at the leg openings, a half inch or more, as I cannot predict further shrinkage.

On a non washed ( remember it was prewashed, so it acts washed even with more sizing added ) a nonwashed piece of fabric wouldn't look right with all that excess. The Hob Nail just rolled and poofed, it looked fine to me to leave it there ( in case of shrinkage ).

Had I washed it, I still wouldn't know if I had gotten all the shrinkage out. And, this is a perfect case of, even if it came out of the dryer small, I could dampen and pull, and it would give up more size. It isn't absolute, like shrunk and it's gone.

Though I wish it were available at true wholesale, and I wish it sewed faster, I do trust this. I trust the Hob Nail a lot, I'd put it over any shape furniture that presents itself. I trust it to pull it tight, I trust it to come out of the washer and dryer and go right on. I would not, this early in my testing, dry in hot. Maybe others have ?

Dee... let me tell you how they wash or pre shrink fabric at the mill. They do not wash it like you or I would. It is dipped in a big bay of hot water, then dried and rolled back onto a huge roll.

So what does the fabric do but re-stretch out. So when it come off the roll it is bigger than it would normally be even after being dipped in water.

If you are selling a washed/ or pre shrunk product one does need to make sure it is pre shrunk.

Homespun actually rolls the fabric off the bolt for you, and she sends it out to be washed before she shipped it to her clients. She has pre shrunk it for you. You may want to call DeAnne and find out how hot she sets the water, and if she dries it too, to get a better idea of her shrinking procedure.

Hope I have helped.
always
K

Shirley, do you think this is a case where it would be better to NOT WASH before sewing? The fabric is already pre-shrunk by the mill - maybe the sizing they evidently add to the wash would help the fabrication process?

I really appreciate your insight.

just because the bleach has been rinsed out twice does not mean they didn't go back and add sizing. Sizing is added back to most if not all " washed " cloth.

All I know is that white Hob Nail will come out blue white when washed in hot and strong detergent, from my experience. It arrives on the bolt a little softer shade of white, like chalk.

And, yes, it's very elastic.

Sizing is acceptable to me, it makes it easier to sew. You need only be aware for the sake of promising how washable it is. If it got lighter in spots and not entirely, it would then perhaps be a problem.

Shirley,

Could you explain this further?

"The hob nail white has a tea stain overcoloring which will wash out and then it will be white white. Use cold water and mild soap predisolved and this may retard this happening. The tea stain like color and sizing may be one and the same, it will wash out with hot if that's your preference."

According to the Homespun website, all of their fabric is woven from untreated, natural (undyed) cotton. White fabric (according to them) is that same "natural" fabric, bleached and then double-rinsed.

Is your experience different than what they are claiming? Also, is the difficulty you're having sewing Homespun due to its inherent elasticity?

Z-Tex has some nice white and natural-colored textures, but the old 50 yard minimum still applies. My samples don't feel as "stretchy" as Homespun.

Dede

The hob nail is the heaviest pattern way, and the natural seems to have more substance than the white white, which looses some substance in the bleaching.

I only used it twice before, and I was nervous about delivering, it seems hard to tame while sewing. Customers reported great happiness with it after washing, and it did cover enough ( hide ). I can forsee circumstances where it just won't hide enough in white white colorway. I think the natural would always cover well.

The hob nail white has a tea stain overcoloring which will wash out and then it will be white white. Use cold water and mild soap predisolved and this may retard this happening. The tea stain like color and sizing may be one and the same, it will wash out with hot if that's your preference.

It takes me twice the time to sew. You have to look at that statement in context to me: I can wizzz through, and this I cannot wizzz. The normal strategies I use half asleep don't work. I sewed cord in casing after casing was sewn to face pillows and cushions. That pulled the perimeter back down to the original perimiter size, overlocking having pulled it out like it was rippled. Think roller coaster.

I will box them on my 206RB Consew, as I am fearful adding boxing will stiffen if small stitch and stretch once again. I can use a long stitch, and 0/3 cotton. Remember it's to be washed. I made facings with viole ( yep ).

The good news, is these are french chairs with a huge hump in the seat, and the customer wants as much leg to show as possible. So, it draped over that hump and turned the leg joints well, and draped over those legs to then close with an overlap all in one piece. It's very flexible, it's one unique saving quaility.

I can add a 5" skirt after pleating front corner, without a band. I faced the skirt with voile, it cannot hem decently, I tried straight stitching and blind hemming, it just waved uncontrolably. I added it as if it was lining, and stitched the top.

You cannot make a folded or turned tie with it, but that's true of many washables.

It has texture, which is the one drawback that sinks the sales of the canvas I prefer. I looks organic, it's as friendly as bedding.

I am going to say this, whether it's PC or not. This yardage was ordered by a retailer in a brick and mortar store. The price was not reduced by much, and quantity was not the issue. This person really wanted this stuff, and there you are: if the customer would choose it over anything else you offered, you are where they are, stuck with the way things are. All considered, I'd offer it again, if I get my time paid for. I feel good about the outcome.

Shirley, please tell us more about working with Homespun. I love the texture, and as Karen has mentioned before, it is an environmentally-friendly product.

My only concern (as yours) is that it is too lightweight - what have you learned?

I can sell environmentally friendly. It's a part that fits into the whole, when I sell washables for allergic families.

There's lot about fabric that distresses me, the goo, how much it changes once washed ( what was in it ? ) how much less substance it has once washed. Can we get more natural stuff ?

I am currently using the Homespun nobby white, after hesitating about the thickness and the price. I like the idea it comes washed and natural looking.

It's been easier to sew than I imagined, though with some changes to my routine: I am sewing the cord into the casing after the casing has been applied to the cushion face, to shrink it in a bit. Overlocking does stretch it out.

Tell us more about what you heard.

Hi all...

I just got back from San Francisco... a GREEN FESTIVAL, you now environmentally friendly to the EARTH that we live on. I attended several workshops focused on Interior Design, home decor etc. I have been concerned about the fabrics, building materials that we use inside our homes, for ourselves and our customers.

My focus was to see how we can help ourselves and our customers with better health inside their homes and to offer alternatives for healthier living. Also to use products that help reduce energy consumption, rather than just to consume.

My goal over the next year is to become wiser in this area and to seek out new resources in this field. We are already helping our customers to recycle their furniture, when we offer then the opportunity to have a slipcover instead of buying something new, and getting rid of the old furniture.

Now to find fabrics, that we can offer our customers that our natural and are fair trade if they come from other countries.

Any one else interested in knowing more? Anyone else have knowledge about what I am rambling on about?

Off to Arizona tomorrow to work with Claudia at a Pet Show. Critter covers for pets is our purpose, and also will sew some slipcovers there.

Will be checking the blog...
Would love response
K with SA

Yes you can go back and edit further. I have my blog to go back 100 posts. I think that might be the beginning of time.

When you get into the blog check the top of your screen. You will see a place that says show, you most likely have 5 in that number. If you click on the arrow it will give you other options. Hopefully when it edits that post it will bring it up to the top of the postings.

Try it and see. Otherwise let me know what you'd like to edit and I will try to bring it up.

always
K


is it possible to edit posts that are farther back than the last five posts ? They are not offered on the edit screen, I wondered how to access.........

Just to prove I can do something twice:

(blog-blog-blog)

I don't really have a lot to say except my serger won't let me serge a seam after it has been corded unless I have nearly 3/4 inch seams. (I've gotton good at seeing notches through the serging stitch!)

Jeannie

This ( I think ) is the last post in the series of double on half procedures. For those not registered having questions to post, contact Karen for blogger invitation. slipcrAm@aol.com

Where I left off, I had ( let's say ) three groups of people, some having not unpinned the fitting ( method one ) some having unpinned and repinned in a single layer ( method two ) and some having unpinned the outside body parts and corded them ( method three ).

No one group has saved time, the time you use on the first try will be understanding what you are looking at. There are no wrong answers, you can do something other than what I am describing as long as you understand it.

The standards to hit here are:

cord applied to outside body pieces does not cause outside body pieces to become smaller. Nothing puckers or twists. Baste only, using largest stitch that does not cause to pucker.

Inside body pieces blend ( get sewn ) into the outside body piece to which it goes, by easing it in. You may have planned darts, sew them securely. There will be excess to blend, a little or a lot. Baste joining seam at first only. Once certain, resew. You may have areas that need to be stretched as well. If notches demand it, then stretch.

The cord you use outlines certain shapes in a purposeful way. I will end this post with a list that will tell you where you'd normally apply it .

Intersections are secure, yet flexible. This will be your biggest challenge. If and when you sew over top of a previously corded seam, it must naturally meet the seam you are currently sewing at a 90 degree angle, or you must not sew over top the seam allowance of the formerly made seam. Alternately, as in quilting, you may sew up to a point and stop, approaching it from all directions. You need not sew over the middle or over seam allowances. Backtack all. Pull 1/2" of cording out of any seam you are crossing or approaching with the alternate suggestion.

Your uncorded seams ( the seams which dive into the deck area ) all almost always flat and smooth. When there's excess ( bunchiness ) to one side, ease, or if previously noted and planned, dart. With more confident cutting, bunchiness will occurless often. At minimum overlock these uncorded seams to strengthen them. You may top stitch as well.

All notches must match. If they are off to a greater extent than 1/4" at one spot, or 1/8" in a series, you must rip and restart. You need not sew a long seam from start to finish. Match ( sew ) notches first and then close between them. You may sew cord on half ( the outside most half ) and then sew the inside body piece to it. Your notches get sewn first and then the rest. Untill you get experience, do this piece meal.

Whatever you do to the right side you must do to the left. This statement applies to good sewing as well as bad. Assume the cutting was not as easy to understand as you now would like it to be. Close the seam in such a way that the notches match, the slipcover is not made smaller ( bunched ) and the intersections are flexible. You think it looks funny ? It may well look funny and be correct. It may well be that it was cut as well as it ever could have been. It may simply look new~funny to you now, it will look normal later.

You have made compromises to make the seams come together, notches matching, intersections flexible and still there's bunching at that intersection, so ease it in. Do same right and left, press well over a ham, and you are done. This is highly characteristic of sewing slipcovers for the first time on the wrong side, it's only as smooth and self evident as it was cut, and you will soon improve.

The list :

Front arm panels get a cord around both side and the top, not skirt line.

Outside wings get corded on the front and top.

Outside backs get corded on sides and top, not skirt line.

Outside arms get corded on the top only, unless there's no front panel, and then they get a cord on the front as well.

Above is the norm. It does not cover all contingencies. It is not meant to curtain creativity. It's a place to start if you don't know anything and want your first cover to look " normal ".

When you have bias seams ( barrel backs ) strengthen them with cord or sew flat and overlock.

When you have contrast cord, your creativity may dictate other answers, you choose.

I will answer all questions asked, general or specific. Post here please, so all may benefit.

I have delibetately omitted order of joining above. I will generalize, but please don't allow this to confuse or redirect you. What's above will give you enough information to see your individual answers. If this list contradicts, the list does not apply.

Seaming order :

deck to inside back ( unless a barrel chair ) from center out to ends.

inside arm to inside back, from top of chair or sofa arm, into the deck. ( if wing, see ( *a ) )

From front arm panel, sew inside arm to deck. Start ( alternately ) from a center out notch and close what you can if the front near arm panel is not yet self evident to you.

If there are short corded seams close them now. These may occur to join front or top panels, or top arm panels.

( * A ) If there's a wing, there is a horizontal uncorded seam to the inside body. Close.

Cord and close up top arm, inside arm to outside arm, join as much as you can. If wing, sew wing to outside arm, leave wing arm intersection to last.

Front arm panel once corded can be joined to the arms. Leave intersections untill last.

Outside back once corded can be joined to all.

Cord skirt line next, and then add skirt cuts. Zipper if needed ( I zip everything ) .



Intersections: if all notches match, and you have sewn ( approached ) up to these areas, you may now see a logical self evident path to closing them. There are now two considerations new to this explanation. The second will follow in next paragraph. Which direction do you lay the cord over if you choose to cross the seam allowance and force it to lie down.? If for now, you sew up to it and not cross, then you need not choose. Later, you will be surer of the aesthetic choices.

Second, and very very impoprtant: it's here you will sew securely areas you have slashed deeply( to shape while cutting ) and perhaps cut on a bias angle. You must deal with this the best you can, it's nature is to be imperfect, regardless of cutting experience.

Sew as many lines of stitching as you feel will secure it untill it weakens the cloth to puncture it more. It will always be ugly to look at. If you can prevent bunching, perhaps by taking less seam allowance on the intersecting seams, do so. Take a little more seam allowance than planned and in the fewest spots you can, but you certainly may. It's compromise, it must be secure, and it must be flexible. It will be ugly. I recommend serging these areas after sewn, not before.

The last issue, as I have left it out but for brief mention in all the rest of sewing details. When do you overlock ?

It may be controversial to say, but overlocking is not as important as understanding your pin fitting right now. The allignment of the puzzle shapes in there proper place is far more important than the looks of the seam on the side. For this reason, overlock only when you can, only where you have sure knowlege of where your puzzle pieces line up. For the sake of success at your first double on half pin fitting, you may overlock last and where able. It's not a priority today. Tomorrow you may overlock as you better understand your own cutting. Be content, with perhaps zig zagging the closed seams today.

Jeannie H? Hooray! :)

I've had trouble with Picture Trail. Also, I don't how how to make images smaller: what you see is what you get.

When you use this method to transfer an image, you're actually linking directly to the original source. Usually this is not a problem, BUT... sometimes the original source doesn't want you to do this, and will cause a nasty image to appear instead of the image you THOUGHT you were getting.

Moral of the story: PREVIEW PREVIEW PREVIEW

And... Always (ALWAYS) be aware of copyright issues.

Everything I know (and I am NO expert, by any stretch of the imagination) I learned from CHFI Forum's "little yellow box", located on the bottom left corner of every Forum page.

Shirley, with your software system: right click your mouse on an image, choose "Properties" then highlight the "Address" and right click "Copy" (or "Cut", I think - not sure about "Cut"). Next, go to where you want the image, right click "Paste" and type [img] in front of address and [/img] after address. And PREVIEW, always PREVIEW!

My husband replaced our Microsoft operating system with Linux, so I'm working from memory here...

so, you could take it from my picture trail ? From anyone's website? are there limits ?

I know how to cut 'n paste pictures that are already on the internet: copy image location, paste in new location, type [img] before and [/img] after.

Anything else, and I'm hopeless.

Dede - Queen of Cut 'N Paste

Nice to see you got online with us. It does take a little bit of time to figure it out, and some practice.

I have not been around much. On the road for 4 weeks and then have been moving for the past week. Finally out of the old place and now trying to settle into the new.

Glad to see that Shirley is keeping everyone up to date on this method.

I know there is a way to post photos also. Has anyone figured that out?

always
K with SA

pictures would sure make explainin' simpler.

Dede, you know how to do everything......how do you post a picture ?

Glad to see you back Karen, I was certain you were doing something productive......