Has anyone read about the Scholarhship to the Slipcover Summit? Several of the instructors have put together an opportunity for scholarhships to the Summit in Flordia.
Wow I know this will really help...
Thanks
Thursday, January 27, 2005
Monday, January 24, 2005
http://www.organic-cotton.com/
This link brings up a page under the name of Earth Stone Fabrics and it says "Mitchell Company's.
I think this is the same as the Mitchell Company here in NC that is supposed to call me back tomorrow.
This link brings up a page under the name of Earth Stone Fabrics and it says "Mitchell Company's.
I think this is the same as the Mitchell Company here in NC that is supposed to call me back tomorrow.
Jeannie, I found the following information from the Organic Cotton Directory:
"Mitchell Fabrics is a retail and wholesale business that caters to the general public as well as the wholesale market. We provide over 30 different organic fabrics as well as organic throws. We also provide conventional fabrics such as Hoffman, Moda, Waverly and Wellington Sears to a growing worldwide market."
Unfortunately, the link provided doesn't work. Did you find one that does?
Dede
"Mitchell Fabrics is a retail and wholesale business that caters to the general public as well as the wholesale market. We provide over 30 different organic fabrics as well as organic throws. We also provide conventional fabrics such as Hoffman, Moda, Waverly and Wellington Sears to a growing worldwide market."
Unfortunately, the link provided doesn't work. Did you find one that does?
Dede
I found a site that linked to the Mitchell Fabrics organics. Finally! Good prices $5.00-$7.00 yard range for 50 yds ($1.00 more for cut). This looks like the source for some of the nearseanaturals.com and moonbath.com's fabrics. When they call me back I'll see what I can find out. 1. Definition of organic, 2. How chemical free, 3. Presence of sizing or finishing, 4. Source of fabric, 5. Dying 6.Anything else?
Jeanne...
Many folks will not have time to check out the same resources. I have to tell you I have found many, many organic cotton sites. All have different pricing. I am still looking for a better rate, writing for samples, and then after I get samples I ask if they will sell to me at wholesale. Many are willing to.
www.hempertrader.com is willing to, so that means I can still have afforadable pricing for a great fabric.
Yes, you can offer washable service, that is important. Some charge anywhere from $5 to $10 a yard to wash. Do keep that in mind.
always
K
Many folks will not have time to check out the same resources. I have to tell you I have found many, many organic cotton sites. All have different pricing. I am still looking for a better rate, writing for samples, and then after I get samples I ask if they will sell to me at wholesale. Many are willing to.
www.hempertrader.com is willing to, so that means I can still have afforadable pricing for a great fabric.
Yes, you can offer washable service, that is important. Some charge anywhere from $5 to $10 a yard to wash. Do keep that in mind.
always
K
So now I'm hooked on checking 2 forums....
Tell me this: what good does it do me to find sources of (organic or ?) fabric on the web, if a customer can do just as well? I suppose I could offer a washing service using my organic (hopefully not too organic), non-chlorinated well water.
I have a call in to Mitchell Fabrics here in NC re their organic line. (Their web site doesn't function) Maybe it's gone overseas...
Tell me this: what good does it do me to find sources of (organic or ?) fabric on the web, if a customer can do just as well? I suppose I could offer a washing service using my organic (hopefully not too organic), non-chlorinated well water.
I have a call in to Mitchell Fabrics here in NC re their organic line. (Their web site doesn't function) Maybe it's gone overseas...
Sunday, January 23, 2005
All this talk about organic, "green" fabrics got me thinking. Maybe this is the kind of fabric niche I can use to compete with the $7/yard store (with GREAT fabric) just down the road. I've cut and pasted the posts with the links to environmently friendly fabrics so I can read them logically and I'll try to do some more research for everyone in the next week or 2 .
(Every time I check out this blog while it is on the forum site I get overwhelmed by trying to follow things backwards. Now I just stick them in a word document if its something I want to follow.)
Jeannie
(Every time I check out this blog while it is on the forum site I get overwhelmed by trying to follow things backwards. Now I just stick them in a word document if its something I want to follow.)
Jeannie
Saturday, January 22, 2005
Not to devolve into politics, but I think liberal views are being questioned this year. There's enough work for anyone who believes this to be true. Enough friendship to be had for anyone who looks, believing there's plenty to find. The pie grows, it doesn't get cut into smaller and smaller slices. You learn more teaching than you do sittin' home alone.
We all have plenty. Share it, and we'll see where we all go from here.
We all have plenty. Share it, and we'll see where we all go from here.
Friday, January 21, 2005
Thursday, January 20, 2005
you have to log out in order to get back on ( previously discussed problem ). You can do so from another computer or from another persons "desktop" on your own computer . Someone suggested clearing caches, I did do that, it didn't do it for me. I did however succeed, once, on a new computer, just to have the same problem again, by not signing out. The log out is hard to find, clear your cookies and that should do it.
Wednesday, January 19, 2005
new rewritten color coded methods summary, available this week. Use this address only to ask for copy: slipcoverslady@yahoo.com anyone who wants an email attached summary may ask for one.
the details don't matter much, the lesson will.
I hope to be able to challenge people to look beyond the method they are already comfortable with to imagine how they can make their lives easier without making them feel bad they don't already know it.
I push the list to suggest this, and some are not open to the way it's said ( by me apparently ) .
I hope the good part ( what's available to learn ) can be the message remembered and not the imperfect means by which the news is spread around.
I read maybe too much into complaints ( elsewhere ) that appear to say " say nothing more ". I'll ignore the possible pissy interpretations of that and just say, this is too important to chance appearing to be biased or personality driven. The information is worth more than my ego, throw eggs, heck, just read the information.
Hopefully, the colors will remove some objections. The message is that we offer to tell you what makes slipcovers a great career and one that you won't regret investing time and energy in learning. Available slipcover learning experiences are not all that common, so I won't hesitate to say again, it's right here.
I hope to be able to challenge people to look beyond the method they are already comfortable with to imagine how they can make their lives easier without making them feel bad they don't already know it.
I push the list to suggest this, and some are not open to the way it's said ( by me apparently ) .
I hope the good part ( what's available to learn ) can be the message remembered and not the imperfect means by which the news is spread around.
I read maybe too much into complaints ( elsewhere ) that appear to say " say nothing more ". I'll ignore the possible pissy interpretations of that and just say, this is too important to chance appearing to be biased or personality driven. The information is worth more than my ego, throw eggs, heck, just read the information.
Hopefully, the colors will remove some objections. The message is that we offer to tell you what makes slipcovers a great career and one that you won't regret investing time and energy in learning. Available slipcover learning experiences are not all that common, so I won't hesitate to say again, it's right here.
Tuesday, January 18, 2005
Shirley....
I am not sure that I understand what you are writing about.
I love the idea of color for the methods. Newbies don't understand that there are different methods until they have been around awhile, and then can see the reason for different methods.
That is why the Summit is such a great place to learn. Things are learned in Progression, one step at a time. One method, leads into another method.....
You are such an inspiration.
I am not sure that I understand what you are writing about.
I love the idea of color for the methods. Newbies don't understand that there are different methods until they have been around awhile, and then can see the reason for different methods.
That is why the Summit is such a great place to learn. Things are learned in Progression, one step at a time. One method, leads into another method.....
You are such an inspiration.
the list is my child, I am going to nuture it, and no one is going to tell it to go away ( no one here did that ).
I dressed my child in a circle costume. I tolerate conflict pretty well, but people don't get off without a scolding. Again, not here. It was just nonsense.
I did however realize that the world we negotiate in ( the websites we frequent ) have quirks. There were valid points made as well. I won't be doing this : any more . I will mention CHF products I use everyday. I actually buy them.
I wish Angie ( ANGIE ! ) would mention Stephen Covey, we both agree stongly with the principles.
Strong, principled women make slipcovers. Smart women. Compassionate women.
My skeleton crew cut, joined and put the bucram ( nearly all ) on 140 widths of drapes in three days. They push me out of the way, now I need a epidural block in my back. I do have free time.
I dressed my child in a circle costume. I tolerate conflict pretty well, but people don't get off without a scolding. Again, not here. It was just nonsense.
I did however realize that the world we negotiate in ( the websites we frequent ) have quirks. There were valid points made as well. I won't be doing this : any more . I will mention CHF products I use everyday. I actually buy them.
I wish Angie ( ANGIE ! ) would mention Stephen Covey, we both agree stongly with the principles.
Strong, principled women make slipcovers. Smart women. Compassionate women.
My skeleton crew cut, joined and put the bucram ( nearly all ) on 140 widths of drapes in three days. They push me out of the way, now I need a epidural block in my back. I do have free time.
Re: Color System for Slipcover Methods
"What is nice ( I hope ) is now methods can be talked about more freely on various websites, discussing when and where they are taught, even if privately when someone expresses an interest. The colors may help neutralize some hurt feelings." [Shirley, from "another site"]
I'm glad you're doing this, Shirley (in your non-existent free time...). There's obviously a need, but I've given up trying to understand WHY there is a need. I'm dumb as a post, I admit it, and my head hurts trying to make sense of any of this. You're a better woman than I am for even trying.
Dede
"What is nice ( I hope ) is now methods can be talked about more freely on various websites, discussing when and where they are taught, even if privately when someone expresses an interest. The colors may help neutralize some hurt feelings." [Shirley, from "another site"]
I'm glad you're doing this, Shirley (in your non-existent free time...). There's obviously a need, but I've given up trying to understand WHY there is a need. I'm dumb as a post, I admit it, and my head hurts trying to make sense of any of this. You're a better woman than I am for even trying.
Dede
Monday, January 17, 2005
New site looks good, I like the title.
Color system ( three days old ) was the byproduct of discussing some uncomfortable feelings expressed by persons advocating one system of cutting over another.
I always knew there was a chance people would infer more into a methods list format than was intended, so I made it a circle. No start, no end, no beginners, no advanced.
Instead of a list that I try to describe by naming people, it's a circle with six wedges. Color them so we can talk about them , yellow, orange, red, purple, blue, green.
The colors were assigned as: Karen's green, Pat's, Janelle's and Alicia's yellow, double on half orange, single on half and muslin pinning red, from an old slipcover is purple, and all methods ( measuring and chalking a muslin ) which come from observations not cutting on the piece, they are blue.
This I hope actually leaves room for more to develop, you can say you do Green~blue for instance.
I decided the occaison maybe also called for expressing my own hopes that people share stories, anectotes about their own paths, there's no history in a circle, the wealth and value is in each persons path and story. I hope people tell some. No circle or graph replaces this.
What is nice ( I hope ) is now methods can be talked about more freely on various websites, discussing when and where they are taught, even if privately when someone expresses an interest. The colors may help neutralize some hurt feelings.
Color system ( three days old ) was the byproduct of discussing some uncomfortable feelings expressed by persons advocating one system of cutting over another.
I always knew there was a chance people would infer more into a methods list format than was intended, so I made it a circle. No start, no end, no beginners, no advanced.
Instead of a list that I try to describe by naming people, it's a circle with six wedges. Color them so we can talk about them , yellow, orange, red, purple, blue, green.
The colors were assigned as: Karen's green, Pat's, Janelle's and Alicia's yellow, double on half orange, single on half and muslin pinning red, from an old slipcover is purple, and all methods ( measuring and chalking a muslin ) which come from observations not cutting on the piece, they are blue.
This I hope actually leaves room for more to develop, you can say you do Green~blue for instance.
I decided the occaison maybe also called for expressing my own hopes that people share stories, anectotes about their own paths, there's no history in a circle, the wealth and value is in each persons path and story. I hope people tell some. No circle or graph replaces this.
What is nice ( I hope ) is now methods can be talked about more freely on various websites, discussing when and where they are taught, even if privately when someone expresses an interest. The colors may help neutralize some hurt feelings.
anyone wanting to be clued in on a color system now being used to talk about various methods, post here.
remember there are videos available to make everyone's life a little more simple, and the purchase is well worth the time and money spent.
Live teachers are available to support you in a new career as well, be certain to ask.
remember there are videos available to make everyone's life a little more simple, and the purchase is well worth the time and money spent.
Live teachers are available to support you in a new career as well, be certain to ask.
Thursday, January 13, 2005
Organic fabrics...... are grown here in the USA. These are not treated with chemicals. Wow it is amazing what they use on non-organic cotton. Organic cotton is pesticide free, and no chemicals have been added when weaving the cloth.
Hemp is usually organically grown, but it is not allowed in the USA. I did read the other day something about it being grown in Kentucky however, so I am not sure about that. Most of it does come from other countries. I have been doing more research regarding hemp fabric. But did find www.hemptraders in LA who has it available to us at a good price. Meaning we can make some money if we sell it to consumers for slipcovers. They will give us a great price at 500 yrd pricing, but we don't have to buy 500 yards. You can get samples from them to see what they have. I liked what I saw.
Linen too is woven organic, and there can be a mix just like hemp/linen, or cotton/linen.................
Green is a word that is being used lightly..... Organically green is the real tamale. But it all depends on what someone wants in their home or what we want to work with.
always
K with SA
Hemp is usually organically grown, but it is not allowed in the USA. I did read the other day something about it being grown in Kentucky however, so I am not sure about that. Most of it does come from other countries. I have been doing more research regarding hemp fabric. But did find www.hemptraders in LA who has it available to us at a good price. Meaning we can make some money if we sell it to consumers for slipcovers. They will give us a great price at 500 yrd pricing, but we don't have to buy 500 yards. You can get samples from them to see what they have. I liked what I saw.
Linen too is woven organic, and there can be a mix just like hemp/linen, or cotton/linen.................
Green is a word that is being used lightly..... Organically green is the real tamale. But it all depends on what someone wants in their home or what we want to work with.
always
K with SA
Read these websites
PBDE more about Flame retardents.
http://www.mindfully.org/Plastic/PBDE-Polybrominated-Diphenyl-Ether.htm
http://www.mindfully.org/Plastic/PBDE-Flame-Concern30jan02.htm
http://chemistry.about.com/cs/medical/a/aa102603a.htm
http://www.watoxics.org/redirect/TFL_PBDES.aspx?fromMenu=0&pos=&name=TFL_PBDES
You will find more links to other sites from these sites.
Let me know what you think
always
K
PBDE more about Flame retardents.
http://www.mindfully.org/Plastic/PBDE-Polybrominated-Diphenyl-Ether.htm
http://www.mindfully.org/Plastic/PBDE-Flame-Concern30jan02.htm
http://chemistry.about.com/cs/medical/a/aa102603a.htm
http://www.watoxics.org/redirect/TFL_PBDES.aspx?fromMenu=0&pos=&name=TFL_PBDES
You will find more links to other sites from these sites.
Let me know what you think
always
K
Hemp fabrics.
I have used the fabric from Dream On Futon, and it washed up well.
Just got new stuff from www.hemptraders.com check them out.
Shirley how long ago did you do this hemp fabric? It would be great for you to wash and discuss at the Summit in your fabric workshop.
New fabric (not Z-Tex)Textile Plus http://textileplus.com/ check it out.....
I have pricing that Jim has quoted me. If you like what you see write me for more information.
always
K with SA
I have used the fabric from Dream On Futon, and it washed up well.
Just got new stuff from www.hemptraders.com check them out.
Shirley how long ago did you do this hemp fabric? It would be great for you to wash and discuss at the Summit in your fabric workshop.
New fabric (not Z-Tex)Textile Plus http://textileplus.com/ check it out.....
I have pricing that Jim has quoted me. If you like what you see write me for more information.
always
K with SA
Found two retail sources for (reasonably priced) organic upholstery-weight fabric:
www.moonbathshop.com (see: Organic Fabric)
www.nearseanaturals.com
NOTE: "Green" fabric is not necessarily "organic" - it just means the fabric isn't chemically treated (ex. Homespun is "green" but is not organically grown).
There's more out there - Karen have you found anything yet at the wholesale distributer level? I'm assuming the majority of organic fabrics are imported, hence the need for domestic distributers.
I really need to get a life...
www.moonbathshop.com (see: Organic Fabric)
www.nearseanaturals.com
NOTE: "Green" fabric is not necessarily "organic" - it just means the fabric isn't chemically treated (ex. Homespun is "green" but is not organically grown).
There's more out there - Karen have you found anything yet at the wholesale distributer level? I'm assuming the majority of organic fabrics are imported, hence the need for domestic distributers.
I really need to get a life...
oh Karen. Please tell me more about your sources for info about flame retardant. I just brought a commercial job into my house.............240 widths drapery..............all FP. WE got babies here.......
I do know my one experience ( each ) with linen and hemp were a bust. They both washed poorly, different suplliers. The Dharma Trading hemp pilled, ( maybe it was my ammonia method ) and the washed linen ( prewashed ) continued to lose fiber in the wash water, after three washings. It looked fine, but the wash water was always full of fiber, a scary amount.
I stopped then, figuring this is some kind of inherent behavior. Anyone find this not to be true, even if a more costly choice ? I first looked to keep it inexpensive, and stopped there.
I do know my one experience ( each ) with linen and hemp were a bust. They both washed poorly, different suplliers. The Dharma Trading hemp pilled, ( maybe it was my ammonia method ) and the washed linen ( prewashed ) continued to lose fiber in the wash water, after three washings. It looked fine, but the wash water was always full of fiber, a scary amount.
I stopped then, figuring this is some kind of inherent behavior. Anyone find this not to be true, even if a more costly choice ? I first looked to keep it inexpensive, and stopped there.
Wednesday, January 12, 2005
I have been doing much research regarding "user friendly materials" to be used in our businesses for our "customer's interiors".
There has been much written and talked about fire retardants being toxic to our interior environment, plus the dyes that are in our decorator fabrics being safe, plus the foam we are using in our cushions and furniture (these are made from petroleum based product and will one day become very costly)
Is there anyone out there using alternative types of products like organic cotton, wool batting for fillers, new denim fabric insulation for cushions?
Anyone have any good linen or hemp suppliers for fabric?
Thanks
Karen with Slipcover America Inc
www.slipcoveramerica.com
There has been much written and talked about fire retardants being toxic to our interior environment, plus the dyes that are in our decorator fabrics being safe, plus the foam we are using in our cushions and furniture (these are made from petroleum based product and will one day become very costly)
Is there anyone out there using alternative types of products like organic cotton, wool batting for fillers, new denim fabric insulation for cushions?
Anyone have any good linen or hemp suppliers for fabric?
Thanks
Karen with Slipcover America Inc
www.slipcoveramerica.com
Wednesday, January 05, 2005
Slipcover Summit 2005 is online and ready for registration....
12 workshops will be offered over the 4 day retreat. You can come for 1 day or stay for all 4. It is up to you. Summit is for beginners through experienced slpcover pros. So if you think you are wanting to know more about making slipcovers, or want to learn more tips and tricks, or just stay educated this is the event for you.
This year is in ST Pete's Beach, Florida.
Read all about it at www.slipcoveramerica.com, then click on Summit 2005. Also there is a link right here on this blogger page, that will take you right to the sight.
If you or anyone you know may want a brochure, call and I will be happy to send to them snail mail.
Need to book your hotel no later than Feb 28th to get the summit discount. We are encouraging folks to share rooms to keep the cost down.
Also Southwest is having a deal to St Petersburg, Florida Featured Destination need to book by the 6th of January.
Questions do call me at 800-267-4958
always
Karen with the Slipcover Network
info@slipcovernetwork.com
12 workshops will be offered over the 4 day retreat. You can come for 1 day or stay for all 4. It is up to you. Summit is for beginners through experienced slpcover pros. So if you think you are wanting to know more about making slipcovers, or want to learn more tips and tricks, or just stay educated this is the event for you.
This year is in ST Pete's Beach, Florida.
Read all about it at www.slipcoveramerica.com, then click on Summit 2005. Also there is a link right here on this blogger page, that will take you right to the sight.
If you or anyone you know may want a brochure, call and I will be happy to send to them snail mail.
Need to book your hotel no later than Feb 28th to get the summit discount. We are encouraging folks to share rooms to keep the cost down.
Also Southwest is having a deal to St Petersburg, Florida Featured Destination need to book by the 6th of January.
Questions do call me at 800-267-4958
always
Karen with the Slipcover Network
info@slipcovernetwork.com
Tuesday, January 04, 2005
Who knew thread could be sooooo fascinating??!! :D
If you didn't already order thread cards from American & Efird, you can call their industrial division directly: 1-800-438-5868. The colors are GORGEOUS! And the people are very nice and helpful. Right now, as a group we seem to be concentrating on Anefil nylon and poly, and D-Core and PermaCore; for details, go to: http://forums.chfindustry.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=30661&perpage=15&pagenumber=1
I should hear about wholesale pricing in a few days, but if we can't get it, A&E's list prices are still better than any distributer I've seen. I'm also still checking to see to what extent we can mix an order (colors, types, sizes, etc.).
Details to follow...
If you didn't already order thread cards from American & Efird, you can call their industrial division directly: 1-800-438-5868. The colors are GORGEOUS! And the people are very nice and helpful. Right now, as a group we seem to be concentrating on Anefil nylon and poly, and D-Core and PermaCore; for details, go to: http://forums.chfindustry.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=30661&perpage=15&pagenumber=1
I should hear about wholesale pricing in a few days, but if we can't get it, A&E's list prices are still better than any distributer I've seen. I'm also still checking to see to what extent we can mix an order (colors, types, sizes, etc.).
Details to follow...
Sunday, January 02, 2005
We were talking about his over there~~~~~~~~~~ but I had mistakenly use tex 24 in heavy canvas washables, only to find out it works fine, wraps quantity on my bobbin for fewer changes, and makes a small puncture to hide well.
Then everyone pointed out my mistake, that tex 24 isn't supposed to hold. Still scratching my head. I've done it for six years and 4000 yards of canvas.
Maybe this is like the problem I had switching finally to mollies from plastic anchors, it worked well enough for 13 years untill I had a huge catastrophy.
Then everyone pointed out my mistake, that tex 24 isn't supposed to hold. Still scratching my head. I've done it for six years and 4000 yards of canvas.
Maybe this is like the problem I had switching finally to mollies from plastic anchors, it worked well enough for 13 years untill I had a huge catastrophy.
hot dang ! I wanna come ! Actually I am pretty broke, bought drapery tabling equipment. You should never have shown me that I had a tacker.
My new years resolutions: begin making more repetitive draperies and limit myself to fun slipcovers. I spoiled my enthusiasm about slipcovers by allowing them to become too repetitive. Somethings must be repetitive to delegate work. My slipcovers are too much like my quilting and knitting, with slipcovers I feel like I sell my children. Draperies are distant relatives' stepchildren to me, who cares ?
Question: having cleaned up my basement and organized my supllies, does anyone out there still use 0/3 or should I donate this huge box to a shelter ? I have metal zips as well that I will never again use.
Newbies, I will ship to you ! Free ! I hate to give them to a shelter where they perhaps cannot use them.
My new years resolutions: begin making more repetitive draperies and limit myself to fun slipcovers. I spoiled my enthusiasm about slipcovers by allowing them to become too repetitive. Somethings must be repetitive to delegate work. My slipcovers are too much like my quilting and knitting, with slipcovers I feel like I sell my children. Draperies are distant relatives' stepchildren to me, who cares ?
Question: having cleaned up my basement and organized my supllies, does anyone out there still use 0/3 or should I donate this huge box to a shelter ? I have metal zips as well that I will never again use.
Newbies, I will ship to you ! Free ! I hate to give them to a shelter where they perhaps cannot use them.
Hi Gang!
I've been lurking around the blog for a while w/o being able to get on. K sent me the link & hopefully I'll be able to get me together. Am somewhat moved to southern Cal. Where did I get all this stuff? Most is for my workroom. Have been thinking about getting a retail space only to keep all the fuz out of the house.
About the thread thing, usually you have to buy SO MUCH & it usually is a minimum of $5000 & boxes of each color. when I get thread from Atlanta Thread, I usually get 4 for serger & 2 for reg machine, usual box is 10 or 12 so we could split the box of each color.
I will go down into the fabric/fashion area in LA & see what i can find there. It might be about the same price as becoming a dealer. I use dual duty poly core with cotton wrap. Does anyone else use that?
Cheers! Happy Solstice & New Year!
I've been lurking around the blog for a while w/o being able to get on. K sent me the link & hopefully I'll be able to get me together. Am somewhat moved to southern Cal. Where did I get all this stuff? Most is for my workroom. Have been thinking about getting a retail space only to keep all the fuz out of the house.
About the thread thing, usually you have to buy SO MUCH & it usually is a minimum of $5000 & boxes of each color. when I get thread from Atlanta Thread, I usually get 4 for serger & 2 for reg machine, usual box is 10 or 12 so we could split the box of each color.
I will go down into the fabric/fashion area in LA & see what i can find there. It might be about the same price as becoming a dealer. I use dual duty poly core with cotton wrap. Does anyone else use that?
Cheers! Happy Solstice & New Year!
Thursday, December 30, 2004
Wednesday, December 29, 2004
Monday, December 27, 2004
You can't get anything done with the kids and hubby around? Oh is that so???
I am someone else knows more about maxi lock which is serger thread used for homesewers.... I do use it for my slipcovers and it works well in home machines. When you go to commercial machines, maxi lock will break, so one needs something stronger.
I know Claudia gets serger thread from some place, and Shirley has serger thread. I'm sure you asked them what they use...
As for group rates, get a commitment from others first before you order. Being a dealer would be nice, but not if you have to put a lot of money up front.
Thanks for thezipperlady's website .....
K with SA
I am someone else knows more about maxi lock which is serger thread used for homesewers.... I do use it for my slipcovers and it works well in home machines. When you go to commercial machines, maxi lock will break, so one needs something stronger.
I know Claudia gets serger thread from some place, and Shirley has serger thread. I'm sure you asked them what they use...
As for group rates, get a commitment from others first before you order. Being a dealer would be nice, but not if you have to put a lot of money up front.
Thanks for thezipperlady's website .....
K with SA
Hi All...
Best wishes to everyone.
We will start mailing out the issue of the Slipcover Press for Dec/Jan... I guess we could call it our winter edition. Make sure I have you snail mail address, if you have not been getting the Slipcover Press.
Also if you are on any other forums and folks do slipcovers, would you let them know about the Slipcover Press, please...
Wow Dee, you are something else. What do you want to know specifically about a group buy? We have done it before.
I will try to help if I can.
always
K
Best wishes to everyone.
We will start mailing out the issue of the Slipcover Press for Dec/Jan... I guess we could call it our winter edition. Make sure I have you snail mail address, if you have not been getting the Slipcover Press.
Also if you are on any other forums and folks do slipcovers, would you let them know about the Slipcover Press, please...
Wow Dee, you are something else. What do you want to know specifically about a group buy? We have done it before.
I will try to help if I can.
always
K
Karen, Re: group purchases...
So, how is it normally done? My initial guess is: I receive the order, then repackage items and mail USPS (so, purchase cost [+ S&H] + packaging material cost + postage cost = final cost per person].
I will see what's involved in becoming a distributer; otherwise, they might not give us a wholesale price (details were not clear when I last spoke with them). Give me another week to figure this out (because I am accomplishing NOTHING with husband and kids home for winter vacation...).
So, how is it normally done? My initial guess is: I receive the order, then repackage items and mail USPS (so, purchase cost [+ S&H] + packaging material cost + postage cost = final cost per person].
I will see what's involved in becoming a distributer; otherwise, they might not give us a wholesale price (details were not clear when I last spoke with them). Give me another week to figure this out (because I am accomplishing NOTHING with husband and kids home for winter vacation...).
Happy 2005 to all of us!
I've been researching thread (construction, fiber, size) on the CHFI Slipcover Forum - I'll post everything here as soon as it's finished. Several of us have discussed a direct group purchase from American & Efird (manufacturer of PermaCore, etc.), and I'm trying to negotiate distributer pricing with them. If anyone here has ever worked out a long-distance group purchase before, please post details! We're not sure how to proceed...
I love research; I really miss my research days... *sigh*
I've been researching thread (construction, fiber, size) on the CHFI Slipcover Forum - I'll post everything here as soon as it's finished. Several of us have discussed a direct group purchase from American & Efird (manufacturer of PermaCore, etc.), and I'm trying to negotiate distributer pricing with them. If anyone here has ever worked out a long-distance group purchase before, please post details! We're not sure how to proceed...
I love research; I really miss my research days... *sigh*
Saturday, December 25, 2004
Tuesday, December 14, 2004
Yes, Shirley it could have been redirected depending on how they have set their spam mail, or junk mail setting.
I do not send mail from the slipcovernetwork site directly, nor from the slipcoveramerica site.
If someone requested a pricing summary and did not get it all they need to do is send another email and ask for one. We are happy to help out.
So, spread the word. I think we have sent out about 200 of these already to folks all over the country.
always
K with SA
I do not send mail from the slipcovernetwork site directly, nor from the slipcoveramerica site.
If someone requested a pricing summary and did not get it all they need to do is send another email and ask for one. We are happy to help out.
So, spread the word. I think we have sent out about 200 of these already to folks all over the country.
always
K with SA
Monday, December 13, 2004
The Slipcover Pricelist Summary which covers North America and then broken down by several regions of the USA attained in 2 ways...
1)Email attachements is fast and easy. Can be zipped off as soon as I get business information. Send email to info@slipcovernetwork.com and for our records we need to know the following:
Name of Business
Address of Business (including, city, state and zip code)
Phone number of Business
Website or email address.
How will they use the information..
2)Hard copy costs $5 for processing and mailing. A check or credit card should be send to The Slipcover Network 8118 Skipley Rd Snohomish, Washington 98290.
We do need the same business information for are records as I have stated above.
We are so happy to share this information.
always
Karen with Slipcover Network
1)Email attachements is fast and easy. Can be zipped off as soon as I get business information. Send email to info@slipcovernetwork.com and for our records we need to know the following:
Name of Business
Address of Business (including, city, state and zip code)
Phone number of Business
Website or email address.
How will they use the information..
2)Hard copy costs $5 for processing and mailing. A check or credit card should be send to The Slipcover Network 8118 Skipley Rd Snohomish, Washington 98290.
We do need the same business information for are records as I have stated above.
We are so happy to share this information.
always
Karen with Slipcover Network
Sunday, December 12, 2004
Saturday, November 27, 2004
Friday, November 26, 2004
well, just some general guidelines. This is Homespun Fabrics PO box 4315 Thousand Oaks Ca. 91359 Hob Nail patternway color white , and though it took longer than predicted, it's beautiful when done.
It needs to be cut 5% large for me, I am not rewashing for removal of residual shrinkage. Rewashing makes it even more wildly wiggly and stretchy.
I'll take my chances hiding the 5% extra in the dressing of it on the chair. There's no claim of residual shrinkage made, says preshrunk, but leaving %5 extra was acceptable to look at, and safer than assuming.
Crinkle ( crashed ) voile was great for lining the skirts, I cannot believe such an unlikely choice had all the needed properties. It will give if asked, and will sew on then shrivel, good for this Hob Nail.
Sewing it makes it stretch, and the more you add, the more stiff and the longer it gets. You must consciously limit this when adding each new layer. Skirts were the thickest, I used big honking ( thank you Dede ) walking foot, ( only for skirt ) and as I sewed, pushed toward the needle the incoming fabric. I unscrewed the presser foot pressure control untill it was very light pressure.
The leg hole facings are cord casing used as bias double fold tape would be used. I left the seam allowance in there, all of it. I zig zagged slowly as near my nose as I could place the machine. It's stiff, yes, but it turns up like a collar, and it's very near the diameter of the cording on the rest of cover. It's secure, uniform, and hugs the legs.
Shirley Hendry Walsh...........................
It needs to be cut 5% large for me, I am not rewashing for removal of residual shrinkage. Rewashing makes it even more wildly wiggly and stretchy.
I'll take my chances hiding the 5% extra in the dressing of it on the chair. There's no claim of residual shrinkage made, says preshrunk, but leaving %5 extra was acceptable to look at, and safer than assuming.
Crinkle ( crashed ) voile was great for lining the skirts, I cannot believe such an unlikely choice had all the needed properties. It will give if asked, and will sew on then shrivel, good for this Hob Nail.
Sewing it makes it stretch, and the more you add, the more stiff and the longer it gets. You must consciously limit this when adding each new layer. Skirts were the thickest, I used big honking ( thank you Dede ) walking foot, ( only for skirt ) and as I sewed, pushed toward the needle the incoming fabric. I unscrewed the presser foot pressure control untill it was very light pressure.
The leg hole facings are cord casing used as bias double fold tape would be used. I left the seam allowance in there, all of it. I zig zagged slowly as near my nose as I could place the machine. It's stiff, yes, but it turns up like a collar, and it's very near the diameter of the cording on the rest of cover. It's secure, uniform, and hugs the legs.
Shirley Hendry Walsh...........................
Wednesday, November 24, 2004
Well, because I love what this Hob Nail looks like done, I am going to add it to the list of fabrics discussed at " Washed and Rewashed Fabrics, Tricks and Tips " at this next summit.
For instance, in order to top stitch it with a cord edge finish, I had to ( after experimenting ) apply 12% less cord to the fabric than when it measures flat. Said differently: if I had an edge that needed cord being 19" I'd consciously limit the cord applied to 17" or a bit less.
Hard to control unless you apply empty casing to face, pull it evenly, and then fill it with cord. Comes out perfectly flat with my sewing it, maybe needs adjustrment for machine and operator.
I got roller coasters untill I found the courage to eliminate that much, I didn't get to that point but by steps. A filled casing was hard to control, the empty one went on just as fast.
Again it came out flat and the right size once done, and did not require a walking foot to do this well .
Dede, I got your package. Thanks, I am going to try a couple.
For instance, in order to top stitch it with a cord edge finish, I had to ( after experimenting ) apply 12% less cord to the fabric than when it measures flat. Said differently: if I had an edge that needed cord being 19" I'd consciously limit the cord applied to 17" or a bit less.
Hard to control unless you apply empty casing to face, pull it evenly, and then fill it with cord. Comes out perfectly flat with my sewing it, maybe needs adjustrment for machine and operator.
I got roller coasters untill I found the courage to eliminate that much, I didn't get to that point but by steps. A filled casing was hard to control, the empty one went on just as fast.
Again it came out flat and the right size once done, and did not require a walking foot to do this well .
Dede, I got your package. Thanks, I am going to try a couple.
Struggling to finish this Hob Nail job for six french DR chairs. Struggling to regain interest in all the remaining holiday sewing, but this is a pickle of the dill variety.
Sticking to the plan, too far gone to change, and no fresh ideas have occurred to me anyway.
It requires patience, and many many many many notches.
I may break out the Pfaff1222e before the day is done to secure with slow zig zag the facings around leg openings and then just whack off the excess.
The thicknesses are a real issue, and next time I may use voile facings everywhere, maybe complete ones cut bias.
This is luxury work, despite the washable kitchen~y nature, and it needs to be priced as to expect it to take as long as any job needing careful sewing.
It will be a luxury for the end user who decided to place expensive chairs at the breakfast table.
Email me for pricing talk and my decsion about the next time I price it. slipcoverlady@juno.com
Anyone ever done this have suggestions that have not come to me yet ?
Sticking to the plan, too far gone to change, and no fresh ideas have occurred to me anyway.
It requires patience, and many many many many notches.
I may break out the Pfaff1222e before the day is done to secure with slow zig zag the facings around leg openings and then just whack off the excess.
The thicknesses are a real issue, and next time I may use voile facings everywhere, maybe complete ones cut bias.
This is luxury work, despite the washable kitchen~y nature, and it needs to be priced as to expect it to take as long as any job needing careful sewing.
It will be a luxury for the end user who decided to place expensive chairs at the breakfast table.
Email me for pricing talk and my decsion about the next time I price it. slipcoverlady@juno.com
Anyone ever done this have suggestions that have not come to me yet ?
Sunday, November 14, 2004
10pm Sunday nite here in Arizona. Claudia and I just finished doing a dog show. Wow we talked to a lot of people. Offering pet furniture, critter covers for their furniture, plus photos of their dog on pillows for holiday gifts and other occasions.
Claudia also told folks about here sewing workroom. 250 cards were past out.
Check out SEWWHAT4U.com to see her pet site.
always
K with SA
Claudia also told folks about here sewing workroom. 250 cards were past out.
Check out SEWWHAT4U.com to see her pet site.
always
K with SA
Saturday, November 13, 2004
oh yeah, I didn't rewash it, no. For the reason you said, it's stabilized by this last adding of sizing. Fabric would be even more stretchy without it.
Maybe I should quanitfy the changes, I see it as big, but then I am nervous about my promises. If you weren't looking for the changes, and it happened all at one or over time by EVENLY, then it's not a big deal.
I had the benefit of seeing on of Karen's sample covers that got washed funny, and putting this in context, I am LOOKING for this stuff, it was obvious to me.
When I cut my french chair cover I left hills of excess at the leg openings, a half inch or more, as I cannot predict further shrinkage.
On a non washed ( remember it was prewashed, so it acts washed even with more sizing added ) a nonwashed piece of fabric wouldn't look right with all that excess. The Hob Nail just rolled and poofed, it looked fine to me to leave it there ( in case of shrinkage ).
Had I washed it, I still wouldn't know if I had gotten all the shrinkage out. And, this is a perfect case of, even if it came out of the dryer small, I could dampen and pull, and it would give up more size. It isn't absolute, like shrunk and it's gone.
Though I wish it were available at true wholesale, and I wish it sewed faster, I do trust this. I trust the Hob Nail a lot, I'd put it over any shape furniture that presents itself. I trust it to pull it tight, I trust it to come out of the washer and dryer and go right on. I would not, this early in my testing, dry in hot. Maybe others have ?
Maybe I should quanitfy the changes, I see it as big, but then I am nervous about my promises. If you weren't looking for the changes, and it happened all at one or over time by EVENLY, then it's not a big deal.
I had the benefit of seeing on of Karen's sample covers that got washed funny, and putting this in context, I am LOOKING for this stuff, it was obvious to me.
When I cut my french chair cover I left hills of excess at the leg openings, a half inch or more, as I cannot predict further shrinkage.
On a non washed ( remember it was prewashed, so it acts washed even with more sizing added ) a nonwashed piece of fabric wouldn't look right with all that excess. The Hob Nail just rolled and poofed, it looked fine to me to leave it there ( in case of shrinkage ).
Had I washed it, I still wouldn't know if I had gotten all the shrinkage out. And, this is a perfect case of, even if it came out of the dryer small, I could dampen and pull, and it would give up more size. It isn't absolute, like shrunk and it's gone.
Though I wish it were available at true wholesale, and I wish it sewed faster, I do trust this. I trust the Hob Nail a lot, I'd put it over any shape furniture that presents itself. I trust it to pull it tight, I trust it to come out of the washer and dryer and go right on. I would not, this early in my testing, dry in hot. Maybe others have ?
Friday, November 12, 2004
Dee... let me tell you how they wash or pre shrink fabric at the mill. They do not wash it like you or I would. It is dipped in a big bay of hot water, then dried and rolled back onto a huge roll.
So what does the fabric do but re-stretch out. So when it come off the roll it is bigger than it would normally be even after being dipped in water.
If you are selling a washed/ or pre shrunk product one does need to make sure it is pre shrunk.
Homespun actually rolls the fabric off the bolt for you, and she sends it out to be washed before she shipped it to her clients. She has pre shrunk it for you. You may want to call DeAnne and find out how hot she sets the water, and if she dries it too, to get a better idea of her shrinking procedure.
Hope I have helped.
always
K
Shirley, do you think this is a case where it would be better to NOT WASH before sewing? The fabric is already pre-shrunk by the mill - maybe the sizing they evidently add to the wash would help the fabrication process?
I really appreciate your insight.
So what does the fabric do but re-stretch out. So when it come off the roll it is bigger than it would normally be even after being dipped in water.
If you are selling a washed/ or pre shrunk product one does need to make sure it is pre shrunk.
Homespun actually rolls the fabric off the bolt for you, and she sends it out to be washed before she shipped it to her clients. She has pre shrunk it for you. You may want to call DeAnne and find out how hot she sets the water, and if she dries it too, to get a better idea of her shrinking procedure.
Hope I have helped.
always
K
Shirley, do you think this is a case where it would be better to NOT WASH before sewing? The fabric is already pre-shrunk by the mill - maybe the sizing they evidently add to the wash would help the fabrication process?
I really appreciate your insight.
just because the bleach has been rinsed out twice does not mean they didn't go back and add sizing. Sizing is added back to most if not all " washed " cloth.
All I know is that white Hob Nail will come out blue white when washed in hot and strong detergent, from my experience. It arrives on the bolt a little softer shade of white, like chalk.
And, yes, it's very elastic.
Sizing is acceptable to me, it makes it easier to sew. You need only be aware for the sake of promising how washable it is. If it got lighter in spots and not entirely, it would then perhaps be a problem.
All I know is that white Hob Nail will come out blue white when washed in hot and strong detergent, from my experience. It arrives on the bolt a little softer shade of white, like chalk.
And, yes, it's very elastic.
Sizing is acceptable to me, it makes it easier to sew. You need only be aware for the sake of promising how washable it is. If it got lighter in spots and not entirely, it would then perhaps be a problem.
Shirley,
Could you explain this further?
"The hob nail white has a tea stain overcoloring which will wash out and then it will be white white. Use cold water and mild soap predisolved and this may retard this happening. The tea stain like color and sizing may be one and the same, it will wash out with hot if that's your preference."
According to the Homespun website, all of their fabric is woven from untreated, natural (undyed) cotton. White fabric (according to them) is that same "natural" fabric, bleached and then double-rinsed.
Is your experience different than what they are claiming? Also, is the difficulty you're having sewing Homespun due to its inherent elasticity?
Z-Tex has some nice white and natural-colored textures, but the old 50 yard minimum still applies. My samples don't feel as "stretchy" as Homespun.
Dede
Could you explain this further?
"The hob nail white has a tea stain overcoloring which will wash out and then it will be white white. Use cold water and mild soap predisolved and this may retard this happening. The tea stain like color and sizing may be one and the same, it will wash out with hot if that's your preference."
According to the Homespun website, all of their fabric is woven from untreated, natural (undyed) cotton. White fabric (according to them) is that same "natural" fabric, bleached and then double-rinsed.
Is your experience different than what they are claiming? Also, is the difficulty you're having sewing Homespun due to its inherent elasticity?
Z-Tex has some nice white and natural-colored textures, but the old 50 yard minimum still applies. My samples don't feel as "stretchy" as Homespun.
Dede
The hob nail is the heaviest pattern way, and the natural seems to have more substance than the white white, which looses some substance in the bleaching.
I only used it twice before, and I was nervous about delivering, it seems hard to tame while sewing. Customers reported great happiness with it after washing, and it did cover enough ( hide ). I can forsee circumstances where it just won't hide enough in white white colorway. I think the natural would always cover well.
The hob nail white has a tea stain overcoloring which will wash out and then it will be white white. Use cold water and mild soap predisolved and this may retard this happening. The tea stain like color and sizing may be one and the same, it will wash out with hot if that's your preference.
It takes me twice the time to sew. You have to look at that statement in context to me: I can wizzz through, and this I cannot wizzz. The normal strategies I use half asleep don't work. I sewed cord in casing after casing was sewn to face pillows and cushions. That pulled the perimeter back down to the original perimiter size, overlocking having pulled it out like it was rippled. Think roller coaster.
I will box them on my 206RB Consew, as I am fearful adding boxing will stiffen if small stitch and stretch once again. I can use a long stitch, and 0/3 cotton. Remember it's to be washed. I made facings with viole ( yep ).
The good news, is these are french chairs with a huge hump in the seat, and the customer wants as much leg to show as possible. So, it draped over that hump and turned the leg joints well, and draped over those legs to then close with an overlap all in one piece. It's very flexible, it's one unique saving quaility.
I can add a 5" skirt after pleating front corner, without a band. I faced the skirt with voile, it cannot hem decently, I tried straight stitching and blind hemming, it just waved uncontrolably. I added it as if it was lining, and stitched the top.
You cannot make a folded or turned tie with it, but that's true of many washables.
It has texture, which is the one drawback that sinks the sales of the canvas I prefer. I looks organic, it's as friendly as bedding.
I am going to say this, whether it's PC or not. This yardage was ordered by a retailer in a brick and mortar store. The price was not reduced by much, and quantity was not the issue. This person really wanted this stuff, and there you are: if the customer would choose it over anything else you offered, you are where they are, stuck with the way things are. All considered, I'd offer it again, if I get my time paid for. I feel good about the outcome.
I only used it twice before, and I was nervous about delivering, it seems hard to tame while sewing. Customers reported great happiness with it after washing, and it did cover enough ( hide ). I can forsee circumstances where it just won't hide enough in white white colorway. I think the natural would always cover well.
The hob nail white has a tea stain overcoloring which will wash out and then it will be white white. Use cold water and mild soap predisolved and this may retard this happening. The tea stain like color and sizing may be one and the same, it will wash out with hot if that's your preference.
It takes me twice the time to sew. You have to look at that statement in context to me: I can wizzz through, and this I cannot wizzz. The normal strategies I use half asleep don't work. I sewed cord in casing after casing was sewn to face pillows and cushions. That pulled the perimeter back down to the original perimiter size, overlocking having pulled it out like it was rippled. Think roller coaster.
I will box them on my 206RB Consew, as I am fearful adding boxing will stiffen if small stitch and stretch once again. I can use a long stitch, and 0/3 cotton. Remember it's to be washed. I made facings with viole ( yep ).
The good news, is these are french chairs with a huge hump in the seat, and the customer wants as much leg to show as possible. So, it draped over that hump and turned the leg joints well, and draped over those legs to then close with an overlap all in one piece. It's very flexible, it's one unique saving quaility.
I can add a 5" skirt after pleating front corner, without a band. I faced the skirt with voile, it cannot hem decently, I tried straight stitching and blind hemming, it just waved uncontrolably. I added it as if it was lining, and stitched the top.
You cannot make a folded or turned tie with it, but that's true of many washables.
It has texture, which is the one drawback that sinks the sales of the canvas I prefer. I looks organic, it's as friendly as bedding.
I am going to say this, whether it's PC or not. This yardage was ordered by a retailer in a brick and mortar store. The price was not reduced by much, and quantity was not the issue. This person really wanted this stuff, and there you are: if the customer would choose it over anything else you offered, you are where they are, stuck with the way things are. All considered, I'd offer it again, if I get my time paid for. I feel good about the outcome.
Thursday, November 11, 2004
I can sell environmentally friendly. It's a part that fits into the whole, when I sell washables for allergic families.
There's lot about fabric that distresses me, the goo, how much it changes once washed ( what was in it ? ) how much less substance it has once washed. Can we get more natural stuff ?
I am currently using the Homespun nobby white, after hesitating about the thickness and the price. I like the idea it comes washed and natural looking.
It's been easier to sew than I imagined, though with some changes to my routine: I am sewing the cord into the casing after the casing has been applied to the cushion face, to shrink it in a bit. Overlocking does stretch it out.
Tell us more about what you heard.
There's lot about fabric that distresses me, the goo, how much it changes once washed ( what was in it ? ) how much less substance it has once washed. Can we get more natural stuff ?
I am currently using the Homespun nobby white, after hesitating about the thickness and the price. I like the idea it comes washed and natural looking.
It's been easier to sew than I imagined, though with some changes to my routine: I am sewing the cord into the casing after the casing has been applied to the cushion face, to shrink it in a bit. Overlocking does stretch it out.
Tell us more about what you heard.
Wednesday, November 10, 2004
Hi all...
I just got back from San Francisco... a GREEN FESTIVAL, you now environmentally friendly to the EARTH that we live on. I attended several workshops focused on Interior Design, home decor etc. I have been concerned about the fabrics, building materials that we use inside our homes, for ourselves and our customers.
My focus was to see how we can help ourselves and our customers with better health inside their homes and to offer alternatives for healthier living. Also to use products that help reduce energy consumption, rather than just to consume.
My goal over the next year is to become wiser in this area and to seek out new resources in this field. We are already helping our customers to recycle their furniture, when we offer then the opportunity to have a slipcover instead of buying something new, and getting rid of the old furniture.
Now to find fabrics, that we can offer our customers that our natural and are fair trade if they come from other countries.
Any one else interested in knowing more? Anyone else have knowledge about what I am rambling on about?
Off to Arizona tomorrow to work with Claudia at a Pet Show. Critter covers for pets is our purpose, and also will sew some slipcovers there.
Will be checking the blog...
Would love response
K with SA
I just got back from San Francisco... a GREEN FESTIVAL, you now environmentally friendly to the EARTH that we live on. I attended several workshops focused on Interior Design, home decor etc. I have been concerned about the fabrics, building materials that we use inside our homes, for ourselves and our customers.
My focus was to see how we can help ourselves and our customers with better health inside their homes and to offer alternatives for healthier living. Also to use products that help reduce energy consumption, rather than just to consume.
My goal over the next year is to become wiser in this area and to seek out new resources in this field. We are already helping our customers to recycle their furniture, when we offer then the opportunity to have a slipcover instead of buying something new, and getting rid of the old furniture.
Now to find fabrics, that we can offer our customers that our natural and are fair trade if they come from other countries.
Any one else interested in knowing more? Anyone else have knowledge about what I am rambling on about?
Off to Arizona tomorrow to work with Claudia at a Pet Show. Critter covers for pets is our purpose, and also will sew some slipcovers there.
Will be checking the blog...
Would love response
K with SA
Yes you can go back and edit further. I have my blog to go back 100 posts. I think that might be the beginning of time.
When you get into the blog check the top of your screen. You will see a place that says show, you most likely have 5 in that number. If you click on the arrow it will give you other options. Hopefully when it edits that post it will bring it up to the top of the postings.
Try it and see. Otherwise let me know what you'd like to edit and I will try to bring it up.
always
K
is it possible to edit posts that are farther back than the last five posts ? They are not offered on the edit screen, I wondered how to access.........
When you get into the blog check the top of your screen. You will see a place that says show, you most likely have 5 in that number. If you click on the arrow it will give you other options. Hopefully when it edits that post it will bring it up to the top of the postings.
Try it and see. Otherwise let me know what you'd like to edit and I will try to bring it up.
always
K
is it possible to edit posts that are farther back than the last five posts ? They are not offered on the edit screen, I wondered how to access.........
Thursday, November 04, 2004
This ( I think ) is the last post in the series of double on half procedures. For those not registered having questions to post, contact Karen for blogger invitation. slipcrAm@aol.com
Where I left off, I had ( let's say ) three groups of people, some having not unpinned the fitting ( method one ) some having unpinned and repinned in a single layer ( method two ) and some having unpinned the outside body parts and corded them ( method three ).
No one group has saved time, the time you use on the first try will be understanding what you are looking at. There are no wrong answers, you can do something other than what I am describing as long as you understand it.
The standards to hit here are:
cord applied to outside body pieces does not cause outside body pieces to become smaller. Nothing puckers or twists. Baste only, using largest stitch that does not cause to pucker.
Inside body pieces blend ( get sewn ) into the outside body piece to which it goes, by easing it in. You may have planned darts, sew them securely. There will be excess to blend, a little or a lot. Baste joining seam at first only. Once certain, resew. You may have areas that need to be stretched as well. If notches demand it, then stretch.
The cord you use outlines certain shapes in a purposeful way. I will end this post with a list that will tell you where you'd normally apply it .
Intersections are secure, yet flexible. This will be your biggest challenge. If and when you sew over top of a previously corded seam, it must naturally meet the seam you are currently sewing at a 90 degree angle, or you must not sew over top the seam allowance of the formerly made seam. Alternately, as in quilting, you may sew up to a point and stop, approaching it from all directions. You need not sew over the middle or over seam allowances. Backtack all. Pull 1/2" of cording out of any seam you are crossing or approaching with the alternate suggestion.
Your uncorded seams ( the seams which dive into the deck area ) all almost always flat and smooth. When there's excess ( bunchiness ) to one side, ease, or if previously noted and planned, dart. With more confident cutting, bunchiness will occurless often. At minimum overlock these uncorded seams to strengthen them. You may top stitch as well.
All notches must match. If they are off to a greater extent than 1/4" at one spot, or 1/8" in a series, you must rip and restart. You need not sew a long seam from start to finish. Match ( sew ) notches first and then close between them. You may sew cord on half ( the outside most half ) and then sew the inside body piece to it. Your notches get sewn first and then the rest. Untill you get experience, do this piece meal.
Whatever you do to the right side you must do to the left. This statement applies to good sewing as well as bad. Assume the cutting was not as easy to understand as you now would like it to be. Close the seam in such a way that the notches match, the slipcover is not made smaller ( bunched ) and the intersections are flexible. You think it looks funny ? It may well look funny and be correct. It may well be that it was cut as well as it ever could have been. It may simply look new~funny to you now, it will look normal later.
You have made compromises to make the seams come together, notches matching, intersections flexible and still there's bunching at that intersection, so ease it in. Do same right and left, press well over a ham, and you are done. This is highly characteristic of sewing slipcovers for the first time on the wrong side, it's only as smooth and self evident as it was cut, and you will soon improve.
The list :
Front arm panels get a cord around both side and the top, not skirt line.
Outside wings get corded on the front and top.
Outside backs get corded on sides and top, not skirt line.
Outside arms get corded on the top only, unless there's no front panel, and then they get a cord on the front as well.
Above is the norm. It does not cover all contingencies. It is not meant to curtain creativity. It's a place to start if you don't know anything and want your first cover to look " normal ".
When you have bias seams ( barrel backs ) strengthen them with cord or sew flat and overlock.
When you have contrast cord, your creativity may dictate other answers, you choose.
I will answer all questions asked, general or specific. Post here please, so all may benefit.
I have delibetately omitted order of joining above. I will generalize, but please don't allow this to confuse or redirect you. What's above will give you enough information to see your individual answers. If this list contradicts, the list does not apply.
Seaming order :
deck to inside back ( unless a barrel chair ) from center out to ends.
inside arm to inside back, from top of chair or sofa arm, into the deck. ( if wing, see ( *a ) )
From front arm panel, sew inside arm to deck. Start ( alternately ) from a center out notch and close what you can if the front near arm panel is not yet self evident to you.
If there are short corded seams close them now. These may occur to join front or top panels, or top arm panels.
( * A ) If there's a wing, there is a horizontal uncorded seam to the inside body. Close.
Cord and close up top arm, inside arm to outside arm, join as much as you can. If wing, sew wing to outside arm, leave wing arm intersection to last.
Front arm panel once corded can be joined to the arms. Leave intersections untill last.
Outside back once corded can be joined to all.
Cord skirt line next, and then add skirt cuts. Zipper if needed ( I zip everything ) .
Intersections: if all notches match, and you have sewn ( approached ) up to these areas, you may now see a logical self evident path to closing them. There are now two considerations new to this explanation. The second will follow in next paragraph. Which direction do you lay the cord over if you choose to cross the seam allowance and force it to lie down.? If for now, you sew up to it and not cross, then you need not choose. Later, you will be surer of the aesthetic choices.
Second, and very very impoprtant: it's here you will sew securely areas you have slashed deeply( to shape while cutting ) and perhaps cut on a bias angle. You must deal with this the best you can, it's nature is to be imperfect, regardless of cutting experience.
Sew as many lines of stitching as you feel will secure it untill it weakens the cloth to puncture it more. It will always be ugly to look at. If you can prevent bunching, perhaps by taking less seam allowance on the intersecting seams, do so. Take a little more seam allowance than planned and in the fewest spots you can, but you certainly may. It's compromise, it must be secure, and it must be flexible. It will be ugly. I recommend serging these areas after sewn, not before.
The last issue, as I have left it out but for brief mention in all the rest of sewing details. When do you overlock ?
It may be controversial to say, but overlocking is not as important as understanding your pin fitting right now. The allignment of the puzzle shapes in there proper place is far more important than the looks of the seam on the side. For this reason, overlock only when you can, only where you have sure knowlege of where your puzzle pieces line up. For the sake of success at your first double on half pin fitting, you may overlock last and where able. It's not a priority today. Tomorrow you may overlock as you better understand your own cutting. Be content, with perhaps zig zagging the closed seams today.
Where I left off, I had ( let's say ) three groups of people, some having not unpinned the fitting ( method one ) some having unpinned and repinned in a single layer ( method two ) and some having unpinned the outside body parts and corded them ( method three ).
No one group has saved time, the time you use on the first try will be understanding what you are looking at. There are no wrong answers, you can do something other than what I am describing as long as you understand it.
The standards to hit here are:
cord applied to outside body pieces does not cause outside body pieces to become smaller. Nothing puckers or twists. Baste only, using largest stitch that does not cause to pucker.
Inside body pieces blend ( get sewn ) into the outside body piece to which it goes, by easing it in. You may have planned darts, sew them securely. There will be excess to blend, a little or a lot. Baste joining seam at first only. Once certain, resew. You may have areas that need to be stretched as well. If notches demand it, then stretch.
The cord you use outlines certain shapes in a purposeful way. I will end this post with a list that will tell you where you'd normally apply it .
Intersections are secure, yet flexible. This will be your biggest challenge. If and when you sew over top of a previously corded seam, it must naturally meet the seam you are currently sewing at a 90 degree angle, or you must not sew over top the seam allowance of the formerly made seam. Alternately, as in quilting, you may sew up to a point and stop, approaching it from all directions. You need not sew over the middle or over seam allowances. Backtack all. Pull 1/2" of cording out of any seam you are crossing or approaching with the alternate suggestion.
Your uncorded seams ( the seams which dive into the deck area ) all almost always flat and smooth. When there's excess ( bunchiness ) to one side, ease, or if previously noted and planned, dart. With more confident cutting, bunchiness will occurless often. At minimum overlock these uncorded seams to strengthen them. You may top stitch as well.
All notches must match. If they are off to a greater extent than 1/4" at one spot, or 1/8" in a series, you must rip and restart. You need not sew a long seam from start to finish. Match ( sew ) notches first and then close between them. You may sew cord on half ( the outside most half ) and then sew the inside body piece to it. Your notches get sewn first and then the rest. Untill you get experience, do this piece meal.
Whatever you do to the right side you must do to the left. This statement applies to good sewing as well as bad. Assume the cutting was not as easy to understand as you now would like it to be. Close the seam in such a way that the notches match, the slipcover is not made smaller ( bunched ) and the intersections are flexible. You think it looks funny ? It may well look funny and be correct. It may well be that it was cut as well as it ever could have been. It may simply look new~funny to you now, it will look normal later.
You have made compromises to make the seams come together, notches matching, intersections flexible and still there's bunching at that intersection, so ease it in. Do same right and left, press well over a ham, and you are done. This is highly characteristic of sewing slipcovers for the first time on the wrong side, it's only as smooth and self evident as it was cut, and you will soon improve.
The list :
Front arm panels get a cord around both side and the top, not skirt line.
Outside wings get corded on the front and top.
Outside backs get corded on sides and top, not skirt line.
Outside arms get corded on the top only, unless there's no front panel, and then they get a cord on the front as well.
Above is the norm. It does not cover all contingencies. It is not meant to curtain creativity. It's a place to start if you don't know anything and want your first cover to look " normal ".
When you have bias seams ( barrel backs ) strengthen them with cord or sew flat and overlock.
When you have contrast cord, your creativity may dictate other answers, you choose.
I will answer all questions asked, general or specific. Post here please, so all may benefit.
I have delibetately omitted order of joining above. I will generalize, but please don't allow this to confuse or redirect you. What's above will give you enough information to see your individual answers. If this list contradicts, the list does not apply.
Seaming order :
deck to inside back ( unless a barrel chair ) from center out to ends.
inside arm to inside back, from top of chair or sofa arm, into the deck. ( if wing, see ( *a ) )
From front arm panel, sew inside arm to deck. Start ( alternately ) from a center out notch and close what you can if the front near arm panel is not yet self evident to you.
If there are short corded seams close them now. These may occur to join front or top panels, or top arm panels.
( * A ) If there's a wing, there is a horizontal uncorded seam to the inside body. Close.
Cord and close up top arm, inside arm to outside arm, join as much as you can. If wing, sew wing to outside arm, leave wing arm intersection to last.
Front arm panel once corded can be joined to the arms. Leave intersections untill last.
Outside back once corded can be joined to all.
Cord skirt line next, and then add skirt cuts. Zipper if needed ( I zip everything ) .
Intersections: if all notches match, and you have sewn ( approached ) up to these areas, you may now see a logical self evident path to closing them. There are now two considerations new to this explanation. The second will follow in next paragraph. Which direction do you lay the cord over if you choose to cross the seam allowance and force it to lie down.? If for now, you sew up to it and not cross, then you need not choose. Later, you will be surer of the aesthetic choices.
Second, and very very impoprtant: it's here you will sew securely areas you have slashed deeply( to shape while cutting ) and perhaps cut on a bias angle. You must deal with this the best you can, it's nature is to be imperfect, regardless of cutting experience.
Sew as many lines of stitching as you feel will secure it untill it weakens the cloth to puncture it more. It will always be ugly to look at. If you can prevent bunching, perhaps by taking less seam allowance on the intersecting seams, do so. Take a little more seam allowance than planned and in the fewest spots you can, but you certainly may. It's compromise, it must be secure, and it must be flexible. It will be ugly. I recommend serging these areas after sewn, not before.
The last issue, as I have left it out but for brief mention in all the rest of sewing details. When do you overlock ?
It may be controversial to say, but overlocking is not as important as understanding your pin fitting right now. The allignment of the puzzle shapes in there proper place is far more important than the looks of the seam on the side. For this reason, overlock only when you can, only where you have sure knowlege of where your puzzle pieces line up. For the sake of success at your first double on half pin fitting, you may overlock last and where able. It's not a priority today. Tomorrow you may overlock as you better understand your own cutting. Be content, with perhaps zig zagging the closed seams today.
Wednesday, November 03, 2004
I've had trouble with Picture Trail. Also, I don't how how to make images smaller: what you see is what you get.
When you use this method to transfer an image, you're actually linking directly to the original source. Usually this is not a problem, BUT... sometimes the original source doesn't want you to do this, and will cause a nasty image to appear instead of the image you THOUGHT you were getting.
Moral of the story: PREVIEW PREVIEW PREVIEW
And... Always (ALWAYS) be aware of copyright issues.
Everything I know (and I am NO expert, by any stretch of the imagination) I learned from CHFI Forum's "little yellow box", located on the bottom left corner of every Forum page.
Shirley, with your software system: right click your mouse on an image, choose "Properties" then highlight the "Address" and right click "Copy" (or "Cut", I think - not sure about "Cut"). Next, go to where you want the image, right click "Paste" and type [img] in front of address and [/img] after address. And PREVIEW, always PREVIEW!
My husband replaced our Microsoft operating system with Linux, so I'm working from memory here...
When you use this method to transfer an image, you're actually linking directly to the original source. Usually this is not a problem, BUT... sometimes the original source doesn't want you to do this, and will cause a nasty image to appear instead of the image you THOUGHT you were getting.
Moral of the story: PREVIEW PREVIEW PREVIEW
And... Always (ALWAYS) be aware of copyright issues.
Everything I know (and I am NO expert, by any stretch of the imagination) I learned from CHFI Forum's "little yellow box", located on the bottom left corner of every Forum page.
Shirley, with your software system: right click your mouse on an image, choose "Properties" then highlight the "Address" and right click "Copy" (or "Cut", I think - not sure about "Cut"). Next, go to where you want the image, right click "Paste" and type [img] in front of address and [/img] after address. And PREVIEW, always PREVIEW!
My husband replaced our Microsoft operating system with Linux, so I'm working from memory here...
Tuesday, November 02, 2004
Nice to see you got online with us. It does take a little bit of time to figure it out, and some practice.
I have not been around much. On the road for 4 weeks and then have been moving for the past week. Finally out of the old place and now trying to settle into the new.
Glad to see that Shirley is keeping everyone up to date on this method.
I know there is a way to post photos also. Has anyone figured that out?
always
K with SA
I have not been around much. On the road for 4 weeks and then have been moving for the past week. Finally out of the old place and now trying to settle into the new.
Glad to see that Shirley is keeping everyone up to date on this method.
I know there is a way to post photos also. Has anyone figured that out?
always
K with SA
Sunday, October 31, 2004
sewing this THING that is now folded in half with the seams trimmed to exactly half inch, and hopefully notched and recognizable as labelled can be done in several ways:
One: from the position it's in, not partly or wholly disassembled at the table, but only unpinned as sewing.
Two: methodically unpinned and repinned to be in an open unfolded position. At no time have you unpinned more than one seam before repinning in an unfolded position.
Three : Unpin and cord the outside body pieces before unpinning any of the inside body pieces. I will tackle this first.
Four: and I don't suggest this, unpinning wholly, so as to overlock before hand. Yes, I do this. Yes, even I get lost. (For the sake of overlocking in a single layer, I suggest you do this only after mastering method one. )
All the outside body pieces I have ever pin fit ( say 15,000 ) have yielded a flat puzzle piece, free of folds or darts. If this is not true for you, and you do not have a very unusual piece of furniture, I want to to recheck to see that the seam location you chose is as far to the outside of the arm or back roll as possible.
You want these pieces to be flat. Why ? When I say you can cord them easily, this should be true, that you can sew~feed cord onto the single layer, with skill of course, and not distort the good fit that you cut. Outside body pieces that get cord at this time are the outside back, arm front panel if present, the outside arm, and if present, the wing. If you have a separate panel that defines your deck front, do not cord this at this time.
Though this looks awkward in explanation, to keep the writing brief, I will now tell you how to open pin the double pin fitting ( option two ). You would procede to open pin the inside body pieces if you first corded the outside body pieces in option three.
Let me say this again: if you are doing option three, we are going to unpin and repin the remaining uncorded slipcover pieces. If you are following option two, you are going to do it the same way.
Notches are critical here, so if you see a need to add a few, or write in instructions or take notes now, do so. Unpin one line of pins only. You will see four layers now hanging free. Take the two closest to you ( facing you in their entirety ) and repin at the notches you have made. If you find none, make them now.
Once you have repinned the two layers closest to you, turn the pin fitting over to the side that has no pins showing. You will see two edges hanging free needing pins replaced, and having the same notches you just connected. Hint: you can use many straight pins or fewer safety pins. You should place them where they were before, at the seam allowance you decided on.
Once secure and still recognizable as a seam, you may move on to another line of pins. I don't see why you would not be able to do this in any order. The long straight seams are the easiest to recognize, and the tight or short seams the hardest to get at, and can be left for last for convenience sake.
At this point I am going to assume you are ready to hear option one, as the explanation for one is the same as the explanation for picking up where I have left off for two and three. It looks awkward and makes you jump around, but it makes the point that you need not have done the extra steps for two and three, one is the shortest route.
Option one: if you were sitting at the machine, cord prepared, ready to sew for several hours without distraction, you could unpin and cord all in one short sequence, avoiding some possible confusion and extra steps. Not to contradict myself, but if you tried two and three first you'd be guessing less at this point. You'd have a better visual picture in your mind of what the task is, and be ready to do it more efficiently.
Looking at a double on half folded pin fitting is difficult, if you are trying to see what to sew. You must eliminate the few things that you can sew without cord first, the tuck ins. I hope you have notched mid seam on all the tuck seams you have cut. At minimum you have inside arm and deck to join, perhaps inside back and deck, and then certainly the inside arm where it meets the inside back. Sewing wing, if present, at it's tuck in, is also appropriate at this time.
It is proper to insert in the explantion here that any uncorded seam can be started and stopped at any point and can be sewn in more than one segment. You need not sew from A to Z. You may sew, and may benefit from sewing, M to S, F to M and then leave S to Z and A to F open for now. Those letters are aribrary and not assigned meaning in any previous paragraphs. Just to say, sew what you can know now, leave the rest for later when it becomes more obvious.
I am going to leave off here for today, with you closing your inside seams where no cord is required, and leave you with the task of examining and memorizing the THING you are looking at.
Visual memory is a skill, and it needs to be developed and trusted.
When you close those inside seams, I am suggesting you do so either from the front ( end nearest to the outside body pieces ) or from the centers of those seams toward either end. Center out for now is adequate, front to inside most~end is simply more effcient and will be used when your understanding increases.
Please know that all this torture is very profitable. In the shops which employ piece rate seamstresses assembling slipcovers, a chair can be completely sewn in two hours or less. The experience of the sewer can yield a quality cover using this procedure, it does not cut corners or result in poor product.
I have not said anything about where the cords GO, or where they stop ans start. I will generalize about this next time, but you need to have decided upon some aesthetic points prior to cutting, and your cord order, stop and start points will be a reflection of those seam location choices.
One: from the position it's in, not partly or wholly disassembled at the table, but only unpinned as sewing.
Two: methodically unpinned and repinned to be in an open unfolded position. At no time have you unpinned more than one seam before repinning in an unfolded position.
Three : Unpin and cord the outside body pieces before unpinning any of the inside body pieces. I will tackle this first.
Four: and I don't suggest this, unpinning wholly, so as to overlock before hand. Yes, I do this. Yes, even I get lost. (For the sake of overlocking in a single layer, I suggest you do this only after mastering method one. )
All the outside body pieces I have ever pin fit ( say 15,000 ) have yielded a flat puzzle piece, free of folds or darts. If this is not true for you, and you do not have a very unusual piece of furniture, I want to to recheck to see that the seam location you chose is as far to the outside of the arm or back roll as possible.
You want these pieces to be flat. Why ? When I say you can cord them easily, this should be true, that you can sew~feed cord onto the single layer, with skill of course, and not distort the good fit that you cut. Outside body pieces that get cord at this time are the outside back, arm front panel if present, the outside arm, and if present, the wing. If you have a separate panel that defines your deck front, do not cord this at this time.
Though this looks awkward in explanation, to keep the writing brief, I will now tell you how to open pin the double pin fitting ( option two ). You would procede to open pin the inside body pieces if you first corded the outside body pieces in option three.
Let me say this again: if you are doing option three, we are going to unpin and repin the remaining uncorded slipcover pieces. If you are following option two, you are going to do it the same way.
Notches are critical here, so if you see a need to add a few, or write in instructions or take notes now, do so. Unpin one line of pins only. You will see four layers now hanging free. Take the two closest to you ( facing you in their entirety ) and repin at the notches you have made. If you find none, make them now.
Once you have repinned the two layers closest to you, turn the pin fitting over to the side that has no pins showing. You will see two edges hanging free needing pins replaced, and having the same notches you just connected. Hint: you can use many straight pins or fewer safety pins. You should place them where they were before, at the seam allowance you decided on.
Once secure and still recognizable as a seam, you may move on to another line of pins. I don't see why you would not be able to do this in any order. The long straight seams are the easiest to recognize, and the tight or short seams the hardest to get at, and can be left for last for convenience sake.
At this point I am going to assume you are ready to hear option one, as the explanation for one is the same as the explanation for picking up where I have left off for two and three. It looks awkward and makes you jump around, but it makes the point that you need not have done the extra steps for two and three, one is the shortest route.
Option one: if you were sitting at the machine, cord prepared, ready to sew for several hours without distraction, you could unpin and cord all in one short sequence, avoiding some possible confusion and extra steps. Not to contradict myself, but if you tried two and three first you'd be guessing less at this point. You'd have a better visual picture in your mind of what the task is, and be ready to do it more efficiently.
Looking at a double on half folded pin fitting is difficult, if you are trying to see what to sew. You must eliminate the few things that you can sew without cord first, the tuck ins. I hope you have notched mid seam on all the tuck seams you have cut. At minimum you have inside arm and deck to join, perhaps inside back and deck, and then certainly the inside arm where it meets the inside back. Sewing wing, if present, at it's tuck in, is also appropriate at this time.
It is proper to insert in the explantion here that any uncorded seam can be started and stopped at any point and can be sewn in more than one segment. You need not sew from A to Z. You may sew, and may benefit from sewing, M to S, F to M and then leave S to Z and A to F open for now. Those letters are aribrary and not assigned meaning in any previous paragraphs. Just to say, sew what you can know now, leave the rest for later when it becomes more obvious.
I am going to leave off here for today, with you closing your inside seams where no cord is required, and leave you with the task of examining and memorizing the THING you are looking at.
Visual memory is a skill, and it needs to be developed and trusted.
When you close those inside seams, I am suggesting you do so either from the front ( end nearest to the outside body pieces ) or from the centers of those seams toward either end. Center out for now is adequate, front to inside most~end is simply more effcient and will be used when your understanding increases.
Please know that all this torture is very profitable. In the shops which employ piece rate seamstresses assembling slipcovers, a chair can be completely sewn in two hours or less. The experience of the sewer can yield a quality cover using this procedure, it does not cut corners or result in poor product.
I have not said anything about where the cords GO, or where they stop ans start. I will generalize about this next time, but you need to have decided upon some aesthetic points prior to cutting, and your cord order, stop and start points will be a reflection of those seam location choices.
Friday, October 29, 2004
Thursday, October 28, 2004
Friday, October 22, 2004
Making certain you will recognize what you are trying to sew once you have removed any pins is crucial to your success.
Do not remove any pins yet, and when it is time to do so, know that you will not remove more than one line of pins at a time. That line of pins can be sewn, or you can open up the pin fitting so as not to be double, but it must be closed in some manner before removing another line of pins.
Working at the table, you may benefit from a pencil, small ruler, and smaller scissors.
Examine your pin fitting for any spots which need to be trimmed to 1/2" seam allowance, and do so, measure if you feel you need to. Use the pencil to mark any pin lines where you accidently cut away more seam allowance than you need to have. Use scissors ( long ones ) to smooth seam cut line, to give you a guide to sewing smoothly, if the seam is in fact long and straightish. End seams squarely, do not round off ( seam allowance should not taper ).
You will notch this pin fitting, at a depth of 1/4". These wil be cut into the seam allowance, not the " outty " notches you see on dress patterns. Your notches must be not more than 8" apart on straight seams, and should occur within the first three inches of any intersection. They may occur more frequently on curved areas, or complex intersections.
They must not be equal distances apart, they must vary in distance between them. Why ? Each point of allignment must be distinctive, if it were not, you will misallign. There is no chance you could misallign any part and wind up with an okay fit. In fact, you would not be able to complete the sewing if you misallign any one notch.
Similarly, notches cannot be so frequent that they become meaningless. You may use triple double or single notches in sets, this does not contradict previous sentence.
You may cut away areas of pinned excess that are intended as darts. Leave adequate seam for dart. You may notch between darts if they are far apart. You may mark with pencil ( as opposed to cutting away ) if you intend to fold over excess, or if you intend to dart and not cut .
This did not address fabric that ravels so much notches do not survive. Your seam allowances my not survive either if this is the case, and you would need to have noted that at the beginning, and made choices that would not have perhaps included using doulbe on half method.
We are not unpinning anything yet. Familiarize yourself with this pin fitting, write on it or pin notes as you need to. Later you can skip the notes, but if this is your first, you need to know what your puzzle pieces are: inside back, outside back, inside arm, outside arm, front arm panel, deck, side arm panel if there is one, wing, ect.
Do not remove any pins yet, and when it is time to do so, know that you will not remove more than one line of pins at a time. That line of pins can be sewn, or you can open up the pin fitting so as not to be double, but it must be closed in some manner before removing another line of pins.
Working at the table, you may benefit from a pencil, small ruler, and smaller scissors.
Examine your pin fitting for any spots which need to be trimmed to 1/2" seam allowance, and do so, measure if you feel you need to. Use the pencil to mark any pin lines where you accidently cut away more seam allowance than you need to have. Use scissors ( long ones ) to smooth seam cut line, to give you a guide to sewing smoothly, if the seam is in fact long and straightish. End seams squarely, do not round off ( seam allowance should not taper ).
You will notch this pin fitting, at a depth of 1/4". These wil be cut into the seam allowance, not the " outty " notches you see on dress patterns. Your notches must be not more than 8" apart on straight seams, and should occur within the first three inches of any intersection. They may occur more frequently on curved areas, or complex intersections.
They must not be equal distances apart, they must vary in distance between them. Why ? Each point of allignment must be distinctive, if it were not, you will misallign. There is no chance you could misallign any part and wind up with an okay fit. In fact, you would not be able to complete the sewing if you misallign any one notch.
Similarly, notches cannot be so frequent that they become meaningless. You may use triple double or single notches in sets, this does not contradict previous sentence.
You may cut away areas of pinned excess that are intended as darts. Leave adequate seam for dart. You may notch between darts if they are far apart. You may mark with pencil ( as opposed to cutting away ) if you intend to fold over excess, or if you intend to dart and not cut .
This did not address fabric that ravels so much notches do not survive. Your seam allowances my not survive either if this is the case, and you would need to have noted that at the beginning, and made choices that would not have perhaps included using doulbe on half method.
We are not unpinning anything yet. Familiarize yourself with this pin fitting, write on it or pin notes as you need to. Later you can skip the notes, but if this is your first, you need to know what your puzzle pieces are: inside back, outside back, inside arm, outside arm, front arm panel, deck, side arm panel if there is one, wing, ect.
okay, you are ready to clean up your pin fitting, make it safe to take off the chair, and have all the seams be recognizeable.
All the areas of the chair should be covered with your fabric, except the skirt area.
You can trim seams down on the chair if you wish, I think there's advanatage in doing that. You really get your nose in there and notice how the chair is shaped. You may err and cut too closely yes, but you have already clipped ( pivot cut or slash ) closely, and you have to seal with that anyway, so I'd say the risk is worth the learning.
While trimming, inspect the pins for straight lines of seams. Reinsert those that would give a false impression to the intended cut direction of seam. Fill in pins where the joined area is too flimsy to withstand being removed from chair intact. Remove anchor pins.
The deck has not yet been addressed. The deck piece ( or pieces ) must have a smooth appearance where it covers the chair front ( if it DOES ). If you plan a deck height skirt, this does not apply.
Attempt to depress the edge of the chair deck ( deck is where cushion sits ). I say attempt, it may be a hard board, and not move at all. If it moves as if there's a spring, you must fashion some of the inside arm or the deck piece ( or a blend of both ) to dive into this crevice. You may add a strip if the inside arm lacks the excess to do this. It is much easier to ask the inside arm ( and it's new strip ) to fill this crevice than to ask the deck piece to do so.
If you can manage the inside arm to dive into and back out of the crevice to the deck, then there's no darting needed. If you ask the deck piece to do this, a dart will show at the crevice front.
Eyes moving toward the back of the deck, the seat can be sewn to the insdie arms and the inside back. They need not be if you hem them and have tight tuck in spaces. I suggest you DO join them if the tuck in space is loose, and if the area in the tuck is big.
Depress the deck at all it's edges where it meets the inside back and arm. Are there any areas you cannot cram excess into ? Take note. Otherwise, and I trust you to do this as best you can, leave a four or five inch border around the deck space. It can be more, less. You should have excess at the inside back ( at bottom ) and inside arm ( at bottom ) to join to this border. Pin so as to have sewing instructions for yourself. Maybe it won't be as smooth as the rest of the pin fitting. It's not seen.
There may or may not be a vertical tuck seam where arm joins inside back. If you waited to close this area untill now ( or even if you inadvertently closed it with pins and trimmed it ) stick hand in there to see if tuck space is available. If so, and you choose to use this area for additional tucking, leave the same border as we did on the deck ( or add it back in a strip if you cut it off ).
Mark for intended skirt length. Make marks with pencil at a uniform distance from floor to the body where it will attach. Note that the mark needs to be 1/2" shy of the intended finshed length, to allow a seam. Skirt can start no higher up than the deck, that's a constraint. Skirt should not start below an existing skirt ( there would be a bump ). Skirt should not start below the upholstered body of a nonskirted upholstered piece. Skirt finished length need not hit the floor, but hold the ruler there anyway to make the marks, then do the note and the math as needed. Slipcover skirts must all be the same length, not shorter in back as soom upholstered pieces are. If you intend no skirt, rub the upholstery line with chalk, and cut away excess, leave a full inch seam there.
Next post will be preparation to unpin. The pin fitted cover should lift off the chair safely now. Pull it off. If needed pins fall out, replace them properly, quickly.
All the areas of the chair should be covered with your fabric, except the skirt area.
You can trim seams down on the chair if you wish, I think there's advanatage in doing that. You really get your nose in there and notice how the chair is shaped. You may err and cut too closely yes, but you have already clipped ( pivot cut or slash ) closely, and you have to seal with that anyway, so I'd say the risk is worth the learning.
While trimming, inspect the pins for straight lines of seams. Reinsert those that would give a false impression to the intended cut direction of seam. Fill in pins where the joined area is too flimsy to withstand being removed from chair intact. Remove anchor pins.
The deck has not yet been addressed. The deck piece ( or pieces ) must have a smooth appearance where it covers the chair front ( if it DOES ). If you plan a deck height skirt, this does not apply.
Attempt to depress the edge of the chair deck ( deck is where cushion sits ). I say attempt, it may be a hard board, and not move at all. If it moves as if there's a spring, you must fashion some of the inside arm or the deck piece ( or a blend of both ) to dive into this crevice. You may add a strip if the inside arm lacks the excess to do this. It is much easier to ask the inside arm ( and it's new strip ) to fill this crevice than to ask the deck piece to do so.
If you can manage the inside arm to dive into and back out of the crevice to the deck, then there's no darting needed. If you ask the deck piece to do this, a dart will show at the crevice front.
Eyes moving toward the back of the deck, the seat can be sewn to the insdie arms and the inside back. They need not be if you hem them and have tight tuck in spaces. I suggest you DO join them if the tuck in space is loose, and if the area in the tuck is big.
Depress the deck at all it's edges where it meets the inside back and arm. Are there any areas you cannot cram excess into ? Take note. Otherwise, and I trust you to do this as best you can, leave a four or five inch border around the deck space. It can be more, less. You should have excess at the inside back ( at bottom ) and inside arm ( at bottom ) to join to this border. Pin so as to have sewing instructions for yourself. Maybe it won't be as smooth as the rest of the pin fitting. It's not seen.
There may or may not be a vertical tuck seam where arm joins inside back. If you waited to close this area untill now ( or even if you inadvertently closed it with pins and trimmed it ) stick hand in there to see if tuck space is available. If so, and you choose to use this area for additional tucking, leave the same border as we did on the deck ( or add it back in a strip if you cut it off ).
Mark for intended skirt length. Make marks with pencil at a uniform distance from floor to the body where it will attach. Note that the mark needs to be 1/2" shy of the intended finshed length, to allow a seam. Skirt can start no higher up than the deck, that's a constraint. Skirt should not start below an existing skirt ( there would be a bump ). Skirt should not start below the upholstered body of a nonskirted upholstered piece. Skirt finished length need not hit the floor, but hold the ruler there anyway to make the marks, then do the note and the math as needed. Slipcover skirts must all be the same length, not shorter in back as soom upholstered pieces are. If you intend no skirt, rub the upholstery line with chalk, and cut away excess, leave a full inch seam there.
Next post will be preparation to unpin. The pin fitted cover should lift off the chair safely now. Pull it off. If needed pins fall out, replace them properly, quickly.
Wednesday, October 20, 2004
time to anchor: get your bank pins out, or your very long T pins.
Anchoring is done to prevent slippage, to position on grain and pattern, and to keep the fabric in the parameters of the space that piece is intented to cover. You anchor deeply, and well away from the seam lines ( inside them ). The doubled sections are self aligned, they should be atop one another in a matching way. You will see this happening, even though they are mirror image wrong side out.
As with any pins in fitting, you want to bury the point if you can. In anchoring, you may need to push them in and then out again. At the very least, point the points that do emerge toward the deck of chair.
The arm sections and front panel can be anchored first, then the excess brushed back over itself so that you can see all the inside and outside back. These pieces are cut big, there should be excess to brush out of your way. Pull taut on grain, but smooth is still the object, so do not pull on bias.
Your middle body sections get anchored onto the chair next. You stuck in pins previously to designate half way points. I am now going to tell you you may not use exactly that spot for your middle body fold placements. Why ?
Pull your fabric from side to side ( widthwise, warpwise, fillwise, whatever terms you use ). Do a test with 27". If you get more stretch than you are comfortable with, or familiar with, or no stretch at all, you may substitute your judgement for where the center fold belongs.
My comfort zone is 1/2" over the 27". If it pulls out about that much, I use the center point pins to designate where my folds are placed. If twice that ( one inch over 27" ) , I'll place my fold short of the half way pin by 1/8 of an inch ( or more ). Let me use different words to say the same thing. I will fold my outside back in half wrong side out, and place that fold short of my marker pins (to mark the half way) by an 1/8" on the side I am pin fitting . Why ?
It makes the cover smaller, it pulls out the excess stretch. 1/8" short is actually 1/4" removed. You can tolerate more than 1/8", but you should experiment in increments, smallest first. This applies to all three middle body pieces, the inside and outside back, and the deck.
If I had no stretch, I may steam goods to get some. If I still got no stretch having done that, I may place the fold OVER the half way point by 1/8" inch. That would make it 1/4" larger. Why am I doing all this ?
When you pin fit using other methods, you are pulling out excess elasticity, or allowing extra for ease, always. You just didn't mentally decide, you are manipulating with your hands, and it happens. Double on half is double, and you are pulling against a fold, and can only do so somewhat more meekly.
I have put fold 1/2" short or 1/2" over, but you need experience to make this adjustment this severe. If adding for inelastic fabric, you have no way to remove it once done, except to trim away at seam allowance on the outside back vertical seam. Even then, it's not shaped as perfectly had you not left this excess. If you placed the fold short of the half way point, then it's too small if you then needed more outside back and inside back. Err with deliberation, use a small number to begin with for this slipcover. Make more severe adjustments in the next slipcovers.
Anchor all before the next steps. All should overlap liberally. The next steps are slashing cuts to enable pivoting of fabric where it must turn, and closing seams. You will need to consider how to best make fabric turn the corner, as you may only have one chance to slash this.
You will close your seams in a hop skip and jump manner with the long pins on straight aways, and the shorter pins on curves. The seams belong right on the hard corners, and where ever excess comes together naturally and with ease, and to your eye, with style. Do not brush excess that is on one half of the seam only on down the line of pins, leave it where it occurs. Pin for darting or to leave as ease later. Do pin as if to dart. You need not dart this, you are just designating it " taken care of and noted ".
I work my entire chair when I hop skip and jump. I go from OB to FAP to DE to IB and Wing in no set order. I close first what is self evident, I postpone deciding what needs further clipping to shape untill I have closed up all else. I allow fabric to lie with ease where anchored, while pulling seams as tight as still looks at ease.
If you slash wrong, replace piece. You won't see this untill you SEE it, on your chair. Trim away if you are certain of seam position and the excess is in your sight line. Trim if and when you are familiar with consistent seam allowance. We will talk about trimming seam allowances next time. Leave your tuck areas alone for now, we will discuss this next as well.
Anchoring is done to prevent slippage, to position on grain and pattern, and to keep the fabric in the parameters of the space that piece is intented to cover. You anchor deeply, and well away from the seam lines ( inside them ). The doubled sections are self aligned, they should be atop one another in a matching way. You will see this happening, even though they are mirror image wrong side out.
As with any pins in fitting, you want to bury the point if you can. In anchoring, you may need to push them in and then out again. At the very least, point the points that do emerge toward the deck of chair.
The arm sections and front panel can be anchored first, then the excess brushed back over itself so that you can see all the inside and outside back. These pieces are cut big, there should be excess to brush out of your way. Pull taut on grain, but smooth is still the object, so do not pull on bias.
Your middle body sections get anchored onto the chair next. You stuck in pins previously to designate half way points. I am now going to tell you you may not use exactly that spot for your middle body fold placements. Why ?
Pull your fabric from side to side ( widthwise, warpwise, fillwise, whatever terms you use ). Do a test with 27". If you get more stretch than you are comfortable with, or familiar with, or no stretch at all, you may substitute your judgement for where the center fold belongs.
My comfort zone is 1/2" over the 27". If it pulls out about that much, I use the center point pins to designate where my folds are placed. If twice that ( one inch over 27" ) , I'll place my fold short of the half way pin by 1/8 of an inch ( or more ). Let me use different words to say the same thing. I will fold my outside back in half wrong side out, and place that fold short of my marker pins (to mark the half way) by an 1/8" on the side I am pin fitting . Why ?
It makes the cover smaller, it pulls out the excess stretch. 1/8" short is actually 1/4" removed. You can tolerate more than 1/8", but you should experiment in increments, smallest first. This applies to all three middle body pieces, the inside and outside back, and the deck.
If I had no stretch, I may steam goods to get some. If I still got no stretch having done that, I may place the fold OVER the half way point by 1/8" inch. That would make it 1/4" larger. Why am I doing all this ?
When you pin fit using other methods, you are pulling out excess elasticity, or allowing extra for ease, always. You just didn't mentally decide, you are manipulating with your hands, and it happens. Double on half is double, and you are pulling against a fold, and can only do so somewhat more meekly.
I have put fold 1/2" short or 1/2" over, but you need experience to make this adjustment this severe. If adding for inelastic fabric, you have no way to remove it once done, except to trim away at seam allowance on the outside back vertical seam. Even then, it's not shaped as perfectly had you not left this excess. If you placed the fold short of the half way point, then it's too small if you then needed more outside back and inside back. Err with deliberation, use a small number to begin with for this slipcover. Make more severe adjustments in the next slipcovers.
Anchor all before the next steps. All should overlap liberally. The next steps are slashing cuts to enable pivoting of fabric where it must turn, and closing seams. You will need to consider how to best make fabric turn the corner, as you may only have one chance to slash this.
You will close your seams in a hop skip and jump manner with the long pins on straight aways, and the shorter pins on curves. The seams belong right on the hard corners, and where ever excess comes together naturally and with ease, and to your eye, with style. Do not brush excess that is on one half of the seam only on down the line of pins, leave it where it occurs. Pin for darting or to leave as ease later. Do pin as if to dart. You need not dart this, you are just designating it " taken care of and noted ".
I work my entire chair when I hop skip and jump. I go from OB to FAP to DE to IB and Wing in no set order. I close first what is self evident, I postpone deciding what needs further clipping to shape untill I have closed up all else. I allow fabric to lie with ease where anchored, while pulling seams as tight as still looks at ease.
If you slash wrong, replace piece. You won't see this untill you SEE it, on your chair. Trim away if you are certain of seam position and the excess is in your sight line. Trim if and when you are familiar with consistent seam allowance. We will talk about trimming seam allowances next time. Leave your tuck areas alone for now, we will discuss this next as well.
Friday, October 08, 2004
this is the fourth in the series: exclusion A : we aren't considering drop matches in this explanation.
once you have cut your allocated inside back and outside back cuts, lie them over the area and pin into it to hold it on the body site. Move on now to cut the arms.
A note about the deck, it is not covered with the inside back piece ( block cut ) as if extended. I will have you piece ( sew together ) the deck with scrap as the chance arrises. The wastefrom previous cuts go here.
We need to consider motif here. An all over pattern, non directional, not napped, or if being solid, will not be discussed specifically. I am going to tell you about pattern with direction and or nap, as that is harder and more specific.
Your inside arm will have a size ( width, arm front to inside back ) , measure to see IF the cut size including tuck (width, above ) that you will need is less than or more than half a width ( half of 54" ) of the cloth . Check the outside arm as well, though rarely can you cover an outside arm with half a width ( half of 54" ).
Yes, I used the word piece with two meanings, and the word width with two meanings in the previous paragraphs. Don't get stuck on this, visualize as you go.
Now, locate ( given your pattern motif, if one ) where you need to center a motif. Couple tricks here. You can never see both outside arms at once. If need be, they could get away with not being the same. We'll try and make them the same here. On the outside arm, the center for the motif can be just about anywhere you choose, including sharing it's picture with the skirt. Take some time and decide. And, then cut big blocks anyway so you still have even more choices.
The picture ( motif ) on my inside arms, if that picture is small, is high and forward. The picture may be big, and the arm big, giving you other choices. The picture may be big, and the arm small. In that case, a secondary ( small ) picture may be better, if available.
This is just to describe the handling of the cuts and the cutting of them. Say I needed the full width for both inside and outside arms. Say my repeat is 24". Say my draping the cloth from deck to skirt line takes two repeats with cloth to spare to enable a nice big block cut. If I had one chair, and two arms, and needed two repeats per arm, I'd need four repeats. That's four repeats having cut off ( wasted ) any half cut off picttures. Four repeats, complete and not having any tails from the last reapeat.
You'd count off four complete repeats, clip, turn the fabric back on itself evenly like before, form that fold, and whack off all four repeats in one cut. Then trim away the tails of any repeat that was on the beggining of the cut. You have a sheet of four complete repeats ( assume the center is the picture for picture framing).
It needs to be folded in half same selvage to same selvage and cut in two, with the fold back on itself and slitting method. Cut four repeat sheet in half to yeild two pieces, two repeats each, full width. One two repeat sheet may do either two inside arms and two outside arms or one inside arm and one outside arm each. The simplest universal procedure is to assume the best use is to have each piece be one inside arm and one outside arm. I'll explain.
You have two cut pieces, two repeats long. Hold them both right sides together and rightside up with the raw edges together at top . If you have done this, the motifs will fall on top of one another ( note exclusion A at top paragraph ). They should be the same length and width, and should be willing ( right sides ) to adhere to one another a bit. Drape the bottom cut edge over the inside arm. Either arm, bottom cut edge, the motif should be going in the proper direction. Yes, it's 48 by 54 and a little awkward. Center the pattern ( yes it's inside out ) as you wish. Drape enough into the deck for tuck and over the arm roll for excess on your cut. If your pattern on the remaining fabric ( now draping upside down over to the outside arm ) will not be harmed by whacking this off now, do so. If the previous was true, you should be able to turn the remaining cloth ( for outside arm ) upright ( turn clockwise half an hour ) and have sufficient covererage for the outside arm, and have the picture fall within the frame.
This sounds very tedious. The explanation is, the action is not. The entire action is streamlined and can take place inside of several minutes. Luckily, you need not sit thru many tedious explanations to get an inside or outside arm under circumstances different per larger repeat or narrower arm. Once you get this, with a normal size chair and a 24" repeat, the modifications will come to you. Exclusion A is for me, a reason to cut in a single layer only. A drop match will not place your pictures where you want them, using this procedure. For me, I'd do single on half. You may prefer to shop pattern and take more time to arrange these drop match pictures and then cut double on half.
These four posts have been long and tedious and so far you only have four areas block cut. I have told you the major cutting strategies that are peculiar to cutting fast standing up with no table.
The block cuts remaining, the arm front, the wings if any, the deck may be had from scraps from the previous cutting of blocks or may need to be taken from bolt. No special peculiar ways to do this are needed, it's fussy and a personal choice.
Finish allotting your block cuts to all areas of the body, save for skirts. The next task will be anchoring. Double check that you have pinned for the sake of saving the information, the block to the area that it is to cover.
once you have cut your allocated inside back and outside back cuts, lie them over the area and pin into it to hold it on the body site. Move on now to cut the arms.
A note about the deck, it is not covered with the inside back piece ( block cut ) as if extended. I will have you piece ( sew together ) the deck with scrap as the chance arrises. The wastefrom previous cuts go here.
We need to consider motif here. An all over pattern, non directional, not napped, or if being solid, will not be discussed specifically. I am going to tell you about pattern with direction and or nap, as that is harder and more specific.
Your inside arm will have a size ( width, arm front to inside back ) , measure to see IF the cut size including tuck (width, above ) that you will need is less than or more than half a width ( half of 54" ) of the cloth . Check the outside arm as well, though rarely can you cover an outside arm with half a width ( half of 54" ).
Yes, I used the word piece with two meanings, and the word width with two meanings in the previous paragraphs. Don't get stuck on this, visualize as you go.
Now, locate ( given your pattern motif, if one ) where you need to center a motif. Couple tricks here. You can never see both outside arms at once. If need be, they could get away with not being the same. We'll try and make them the same here. On the outside arm, the center for the motif can be just about anywhere you choose, including sharing it's picture with the skirt. Take some time and decide. And, then cut big blocks anyway so you still have even more choices.
The picture ( motif ) on my inside arms, if that picture is small, is high and forward. The picture may be big, and the arm big, giving you other choices. The picture may be big, and the arm small. In that case, a secondary ( small ) picture may be better, if available.
This is just to describe the handling of the cuts and the cutting of them. Say I needed the full width for both inside and outside arms. Say my repeat is 24". Say my draping the cloth from deck to skirt line takes two repeats with cloth to spare to enable a nice big block cut. If I had one chair, and two arms, and needed two repeats per arm, I'd need four repeats. That's four repeats having cut off ( wasted ) any half cut off picttures. Four repeats, complete and not having any tails from the last reapeat.
You'd count off four complete repeats, clip, turn the fabric back on itself evenly like before, form that fold, and whack off all four repeats in one cut. Then trim away the tails of any repeat that was on the beggining of the cut. You have a sheet of four complete repeats ( assume the center is the picture for picture framing).
It needs to be folded in half same selvage to same selvage and cut in two, with the fold back on itself and slitting method. Cut four repeat sheet in half to yeild two pieces, two repeats each, full width. One two repeat sheet may do either two inside arms and two outside arms or one inside arm and one outside arm each. The simplest universal procedure is to assume the best use is to have each piece be one inside arm and one outside arm. I'll explain.
You have two cut pieces, two repeats long. Hold them both right sides together and rightside up with the raw edges together at top . If you have done this, the motifs will fall on top of one another ( note exclusion A at top paragraph ). They should be the same length and width, and should be willing ( right sides ) to adhere to one another a bit. Drape the bottom cut edge over the inside arm. Either arm, bottom cut edge, the motif should be going in the proper direction. Yes, it's 48 by 54 and a little awkward. Center the pattern ( yes it's inside out ) as you wish. Drape enough into the deck for tuck and over the arm roll for excess on your cut. If your pattern on the remaining fabric ( now draping upside down over to the outside arm ) will not be harmed by whacking this off now, do so. If the previous was true, you should be able to turn the remaining cloth ( for outside arm ) upright ( turn clockwise half an hour ) and have sufficient covererage for the outside arm, and have the picture fall within the frame.
This sounds very tedious. The explanation is, the action is not. The entire action is streamlined and can take place inside of several minutes. Luckily, you need not sit thru many tedious explanations to get an inside or outside arm under circumstances different per larger repeat or narrower arm. Once you get this, with a normal size chair and a 24" repeat, the modifications will come to you. Exclusion A is for me, a reason to cut in a single layer only. A drop match will not place your pictures where you want them, using this procedure. For me, I'd do single on half. You may prefer to shop pattern and take more time to arrange these drop match pictures and then cut double on half.
These four posts have been long and tedious and so far you only have four areas block cut. I have told you the major cutting strategies that are peculiar to cutting fast standing up with no table.
The block cuts remaining, the arm front, the wings if any, the deck may be had from scraps from the previous cutting of blocks or may need to be taken from bolt. No special peculiar ways to do this are needed, it's fussy and a personal choice.
Finish allotting your block cuts to all areas of the body, save for skirts. The next task will be anchoring. Double check that you have pinned for the sake of saving the information, the block to the area that it is to cover.
Thursday, October 07, 2004
Once you have placed your pins ( four of them ) for your half way points, and deturmined where seams are likely to go, it's time to cut and anchor block cuts. Assume this is a chair. Assume we are NOT railroading. Assume you have plain weave cotton, the proper weight.
This is my procedure. I learned from tall men with strength. I am not petite, so this works for me as well. Hope you can do it.
Taking off the longest cuts first: hold the bolt cut end , four yards pulled off ( but not cut ) up to the outside back. It does not matter if it's a print or solid, or if it's rolled on the bolt upside down. Hold it up there, from top back to skirt length, add six inches or so, and clip the selvage. That's a mark to refer back to.
Next fold the yardage in half to see how wide half is ( and to see if half covers the back with some to spare. ) If half works, check to see if the motif falls where you want it. If you need the whole cut to use motif properly, fine. If you need more inches on the cut to move motif to a better location, fine. Time to whack a cut.
At the clip in selvage ( or further down if you need more for motif ) fold goods over onto itself on bolt, selvages meeting at the top. Smooth and flat, with a fold, this usually means right side in, but that's not consequential. Once smooth grasp the fold top with left hand, insert good sharp sheers into the fold with right. I am a righty, leftys figure what you need to. My bolt is on my left, on the floor, several feet away from the hank I am whacking off.
Slide the shears, 1/2 open, fabric touching about the back of center of the blade, while pulling upward with left hand. Using my right leg I am supporting the fold so I can see it all, and so that it remains straight. At 5'3" I can do it without repositioning. I am tall enough. It's all one motion. If not, assume scissors need to be upgraded, not that you are too short ( unless you are in fact much shorter ). I can do this with 54" goods at 5'3" tall. Some of it is on the floor at first, granted.
Okay: if the cut you have removed can be split lengthwise and fit ( halves ) the inside back and outside back, great. If the cut is only wide enough on half to barely cover the back, noting what I have said about the purpose of excess size of cuts, decide if you want to use the whole thing.
Spilt and dedicate to inside back as well, or cut another cut for inside back using same procedure.
Note: I use a concept I call picture framing. That simply means to me that I choose where on the body part my best center occurs. Happens that ( not coincidentally ) my motifs ride high on my inside back and outside back. That means the halves of my one cut when split to be used on both inside and outside back are most often situated the same, automatically. Note if a half drop, use the lower framed motif on the back if need be.
Practice this much ( or do it mentally ). Tell me what's uncomfortable about it.
This is my procedure. I learned from tall men with strength. I am not petite, so this works for me as well. Hope you can do it.
Taking off the longest cuts first: hold the bolt cut end , four yards pulled off ( but not cut ) up to the outside back. It does not matter if it's a print or solid, or if it's rolled on the bolt upside down. Hold it up there, from top back to skirt length, add six inches or so, and clip the selvage. That's a mark to refer back to.
Next fold the yardage in half to see how wide half is ( and to see if half covers the back with some to spare. ) If half works, check to see if the motif falls where you want it. If you need the whole cut to use motif properly, fine. If you need more inches on the cut to move motif to a better location, fine. Time to whack a cut.
At the clip in selvage ( or further down if you need more for motif ) fold goods over onto itself on bolt, selvages meeting at the top. Smooth and flat, with a fold, this usually means right side in, but that's not consequential. Once smooth grasp the fold top with left hand, insert good sharp sheers into the fold with right. I am a righty, leftys figure what you need to. My bolt is on my left, on the floor, several feet away from the hank I am whacking off.
Slide the shears, 1/2 open, fabric touching about the back of center of the blade, while pulling upward with left hand. Using my right leg I am supporting the fold so I can see it all, and so that it remains straight. At 5'3" I can do it without repositioning. I am tall enough. It's all one motion. If not, assume scissors need to be upgraded, not that you are too short ( unless you are in fact much shorter ). I can do this with 54" goods at 5'3" tall. Some of it is on the floor at first, granted.
Okay: if the cut you have removed can be split lengthwise and fit ( halves ) the inside back and outside back, great. If the cut is only wide enough on half to barely cover the back, noting what I have said about the purpose of excess size of cuts, decide if you want to use the whole thing.
Spilt and dedicate to inside back as well, or cut another cut for inside back using same procedure.
Note: I use a concept I call picture framing. That simply means to me that I choose where on the body part my best center occurs. Happens that ( not coincidentally ) my motifs ride high on my inside back and outside back. That means the halves of my one cut when split to be used on both inside and outside back are most often situated the same, automatically. Note if a half drop, use the lower framed motif on the back if need be.
Practice this much ( or do it mentally ). Tell me what's uncomfortable about it.
Wednesday, October 06, 2004
Hi Shirley
I also did not know you were waiting for a response. Sorry, here we were just waiting for the next lesson.
I really need to speed up my slipcovering skills. I can tell I am getting a little bit faster. I know I measure and refit way too many times. I am currently using Karen's method and I always have the piece of furniture in front of me. I would really love to not have to bring the furniture home and I am just not ready to sew in customers home yet. So please proceed I will be waiting for the next lesson.
I also did not know you were waiting for a response. Sorry, here we were just waiting for the next lesson.
I really need to speed up my slipcovering skills. I can tell I am getting a little bit faster. I know I measure and refit way too many times. I am currently using Karen's method and I always have the piece of furniture in front of me. I would really love to not have to bring the furniture home and I am just not ready to sew in customers home yet. So please proceed I will be waiting for the next lesson.
Tuesday, October 05, 2004
Monday, October 04, 2004
okay, no takers, but we will procede like we are useful.
The next step is to visualize where you'd predict or like the seams to be. The seams must be placed where you want the cords to appear. Seams must also join areas where grain direction or pattern direction would ideally change.
Additionally, seams protect areas of stress or shaping that would tear if only one piece of fabric was asked to make severe turns. Seams shape, seams atract attention, seams hold zippers.
Seams ( cords ) create a new sillohuette ( sp?? ) . Seams need not, and in many cases cannot, fall where the upholsterer placed the cords or joins. We have no nails, no glue. Simple gravity and tension are at work, we manipulate but not force.
The first cuts of fabric ( all body parts ) must then have a margin of error allowed for adjusting the placement. I like cuts three inches over my hoped for seam placement, so that I may change the plan as I see a better answer ( or a neccessary answer even if I don't like it ).
How does a beginer answer this question for the first time ( where seams go ? ). Look at existing slipcovers. Magazines yes, but in the home in use as well.
Second suggestion, place your hands on the furniture as you look at it. Interlace your fingers and form right angles with fingers. Hold hands so that the fingers and palms form north south east west positions. Find corners on the rounded surfaces of the furniture. Some corners are obvious, and probably needed seam location. There may be more seams needed, on these more rounded surfaces. Hard corners are required seams: rounded corners are possible seams. A seam may be a choice, or perhaps a more practical answer than making one piece of fabric bend around a corner.
The next step is to visualize where you'd predict or like the seams to be. The seams must be placed where you want the cords to appear. Seams must also join areas where grain direction or pattern direction would ideally change.
Additionally, seams protect areas of stress or shaping that would tear if only one piece of fabric was asked to make severe turns. Seams shape, seams atract attention, seams hold zippers.
Seams ( cords ) create a new sillohuette ( sp?? ) . Seams need not, and in many cases cannot, fall where the upholsterer placed the cords or joins. We have no nails, no glue. Simple gravity and tension are at work, we manipulate but not force.
The first cuts of fabric ( all body parts ) must then have a margin of error allowed for adjusting the placement. I like cuts three inches over my hoped for seam placement, so that I may change the plan as I see a better answer ( or a neccessary answer even if I don't like it ).
How does a beginer answer this question for the first time ( where seams go ? ). Look at existing slipcovers. Magazines yes, but in the home in use as well.
Second suggestion, place your hands on the furniture as you look at it. Interlace your fingers and form right angles with fingers. Hold hands so that the fingers and palms form north south east west positions. Find corners on the rounded surfaces of the furniture. Some corners are obvious, and probably needed seam location. There may be more seams needed, on these more rounded surfaces. Hard corners are required seams: rounded corners are possible seams. A seam may be a choice, or perhaps a more practical answer than making one piece of fabric bend around a corner.
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